How Korean beauty is embracing darker skin tones - The Fifth Floor podcast, BBC World Service

Key Concepts:

• K-beauty (Korean beauty) industry: Growth, exports, and global expansion.
• Skin tone inclusivity: Addressing the lack of diverse shade ranges in K-beauty products.
• Influencer impact: The role of beauty influencers in driving change and demanding inclusivity.
• Cultural differences: Variations in beauty preferences and color matching techniques across different regions.
• Ingredient adaptation: Reformulating products to suit darker skin tones, specifically addressing issues with titanium dioxide.

1. Overview of the K-Beauty Industry

• The K-beauty industry, encompassing skincare and makeup, has become a significant export for South Korea, alongside K-dramas and K-pop.
• Korean skincare is known for its innovation, high-quality natural ingredients (e.g., snail mucin, ginseng, green tea), and focus on achieving "glass skin" through multi-step routines emphasizing hydration.
• The domestic cosmetic market in South Korea is worth over $11 billion and is projected to grow by 4% annually until 2029.
• In 2023, South Korea was the second-largest cosmetic exporter with over $7 billion in exports, trailing only France (over $11 billion).
• The global popularity of K-pop, K-dramas, and films has significantly driven the expansion of K-beauty products beyond South Korea.

2. The Issue of Inclusivity and the Backlash

• Initially, Korean cosmetics faced criticism for a lack of inclusivity, with many products formulated primarily for lighter skin tones.
• Consumers with darker skin tones struggled to find suitable shades in base makeup, lip products, and blushes.

3. The Role of Influencers: MissDarcei's Impact

• MissDarcei, a Black beauty influencer based in Toronto, played a pivotal role in highlighting the issue.
• She posted a video about her experience at a brand event where she tried the darkest shades of several Korean cushion foundations, none of which matched her skin tone.
• The video went viral, sparking a broader conversation among beauty influencers who called for greater inclusivity from Korean brands.
• Korean brands responded quickly; within weeks, one brand provided MissDarcei with 15 additional dark shade cushion foundations to try.

4. Impact on African Markets: Kenya and Nigeria

• The increased inclusivity in the K-beauty industry has had a significant impact in African countries like Kenya and Nigeria.
• A manager at a cosmetics shop in Nairobi, Kenya, noted that Korean dark cushion foundations are now among the best-selling items.
• A beauty influencer in Lagos, Nigeria, shared a video review on TikTok that generated considerable interest in Korean brands catering to darker skin tones.
• A BBC video journalist based in Nairobi mentioned the popularity of Korean beauty products in Nairobi, suggesting it as a potential business opportunity.

5. Manufacturer's Perspective and Research

• A manufacturer providing products to over 3700 beauty brands in South Korea explained that limited prior research on darker skin tones necessitated starting from scratch.
• The manufacturer conducted "real color matching tests" on individuals from America, Africa, the Pacific, and other regions to understand the specific needs of darker skin tones.
• These tests revealed that titanium dioxide, a common ingredient in Korean cushion foundations, can create an ashy finish on darker skin tones, requiring a reformulation.
• The research also highlighted cultural differences in color matching preferences. In Korea, it's common to choose a foundation one or two shades lighter, while Black consumers often prefer matching their foundation to their neck for a natural look.

6. Soo Min Kim's Background and Future Research

• Soo Min Kim, the Korean journalist, is a former Miss South Korea (2018), which influenced her interest in the beauty industry.
• She is currently researching the sustainable beauty industry, focusing on what it truly means and which brands are genuinely contributing to it.

7. Conclusion

• The K-beauty industry is adapting to global demands for inclusivity, driven by consumer feedback and the influence of beauty influencers.
• Addressing the specific needs of diverse skin tones requires research, ingredient adjustments, and an understanding of cultural preferences.
• The expansion of K-beauty into new markets like Africa demonstrates the potential for growth when products are tailored to local consumers.