How inclusive is Korean make-up? What in the World podcast, BBC World Service

Key Concepts:

• Skin undertones (warm, cool, neutral) and overtones
• Shade range inclusivity in makeup
• K-beauty (Korean beauty) market and its global expansion
• Titanium Dioxide in cushion foundations and its effect on darker skin tones
• Original Design Manufacturer (ODM)
• AI-powered on-demand color matching
• Diversity and inclusion in the beauty industry

1. Understanding Skin Tone and Color Matching

• Overtone vs. Undertone: Overtone is the surface color of the skin, while undertone is the subtle color underneath. Undertones are generally classified as warm (golden, yellowish), cool (pink, purple, bluish), or neutral.
• Personal Color Testing: In Korea, professional color analysts use colored drapes to determine the optimal colors that brighten a person's complexion, revealing their undertones.
• Challenges in Finding the Right Shade: Beauty influencers highlight the difficulty in finding makeup shades, especially for very fair or dark skin tones, and those with cool undertones. Many products are often too warm or not light enough.

2. Evolution of Shade Ranges and Brand Responsibility

• Social Media's Impact: Social media has increased accountability for brands with poor shade ranges, leading to negative press and decreased sales.
• Groundbreaking Launches: The launch of brands with extensive shade ranges (e.g., 50 shades) has pushed other brands to re-evaluate their inclusivity.
• Undertone Issues in Darker Skin Tones: Even with expanded shade ranges, undertones remain a challenge, particularly for brown and black skin, where products are often too orange or red.

3. Economic Factors Influencing Shade Range Diversity

• Target Consumer: Traditional makeup brands often target a specific consumer, influencing their formula and shade range decisions.
• Economic Risks: Offering a wide range of shades (e.g., 50 shades) requires significant investment in units, making it risky to launch or reformulate products. Unsold stock can lead to substantial losses.

4. K-Beauty: Global Phenomenon and Inclusivity Challenges

• K-Beauty Popularity: K-beauty is driven by the Korean wave (K-dramas, K-pop, Korean films), reasonable prices, and high-quality products.
• Limited Color Options: Historically, K-beauty brands have focused on the local, homogenous market, resulting in limited color options. Foreign residents only make up about 5.2% of the total population.
• Global Expansion and Adaptation: As K-beauty expands globally, brands are adapting by launching darker shade ranges and reformulating products.
• Market Size: The domestic K-beauty market is valued at over $11 billion. In 2023, South Korea was the second-largest cosmetic exporter, behind France. In 2024, Korean cosmetic exports surpassed $10 billion, a 20% increase from the previous year.
• Key Markets: China is the largest market for Korean cosmetics (over $2 billion in exports), followed by the United States (over $1.24 billion in exports in 2024). Emerging markets include the Middle East, Southeast Asia, and Africa.

5. K-Beauty in Emerging Markets: The Case of Kenya

• Growing Popularity: Korean culture and skincare products are gaining popularity in Kenya, driven by social media marketing and African influencers.
• Influencer Marketing: African influencers using Korean products on African skin increase consumer trust and adoption.

6. Adapting K-Beauty Formulas for Diverse Skin Tones

• Kolmar Korea Research: Kolmar Korea, an ODM company, reports that 20% of its Korean brand clients have requested products for darker skin tones.
• Titanium Dioxide Issue: Titanium Dioxide, commonly used in Korean cushion foundations, creates an ashy look on darker skin tones.
• Reformulation Efforts: Companies are reformulating cushion foundations and developing a wider spectrum of colors to match darker skin tones effectively.
• Wider Color Spectrum: Darker skin tones require a broader range of color tones compared to lighter skin tones.

7. The Role of AI in Personalized Makeup

• Dcypher's AI Solution: Dcypher uses AI for on-demand color matching. Consumers answer questions and have their skin tone scanned using an AI computer vision model.
• Custom Recipe Creation: The AI creates a custom recipe, determining the exact percentages of pigments (white, black, yellow, red) and other ingredients based on the consumer's skin tone, coverage preference, and desired finish.

8. The Impact of Brands Like Fenty

• Pioneering Inclusivity: Brands like Fenty were among the first to offer extensive shade ranges for multiple skin tones, setting a new standard for the industry.

9. Conclusion:

The beauty industry is evolving towards greater inclusivity, driven by social media, consumer demand, and technological advancements. While challenges remain, particularly in undertone matching and economic considerations, brands are increasingly recognizing the importance of catering to diverse skin tones. K-beauty, while initially focused on a homogenous market, is adapting its formulas and shade ranges to meet the needs of a global audience. AI-powered solutions offer a promising future for personalized makeup, ensuring that everyone can find their perfect match.