Are cosmetics formulated for darker skin? | AJ Addae | TEDxManhattanBeach

Key Concepts:

• Inclusivity gaps in the beauty industry
• Fitzpatrick scale limitations
• Melanin's impact on skin condition perception and treatment efficacy
• White cast in sunscreens on darker skin tones
• Inclusive cosmetic science
• Hyperpigmentation treatment efficacy on different skin tones
• Skin microbiome interactions with sunscreens
• Economic opportunity in addressing racial inequity in beauty

1. Personal Experience and the Problem:

• The speaker recounts her experience at 17, struggling to find a foundation shade that matched her darker skin tone at a beauty store. The only options were unaffordable high-end brands.
• She also notes that sunscreen marketing often focuses on sunburn and redness, issues less relevant to darker skin tones.
• This highlights the lack of attention given to darker skin tones in cosmetic science, research, and major beauty brands.

2. The Fitzpatrick Scale and its Limitations:

• The Fitzpatrick scale, a clinical standard in dermatology since 1975, correlates sun sensitivity with skin tones.
• The original scale and its 1988 update are criticized for not accurately representing the diversity of darker skin tones. The scale has a gradual increase between shades 1-3, but a stark increase between shades 4-6.
• An Illinois State University article from 2022 is cited, stating that there are more people with perceived darker skin tones than lighter skin tones, contradicting the Fitzpatrick scale's distribution.

3. Inclusivity Gaps in Beauty Products and Education:

• The speaker points out the disparity in product options, with fewer products marketed towards darker skin tones.
• Dermatology education is also lacking, with insufficient training on how chronic skin conditions manifest in darker skin tones.
• Melanin, the pigment responsible for skin tone, affects the perception of skin cancer, chronic skin conditions, and the efficacy of treatments for hyperpigmentation and acne.

4. The Speaker's Journey into Cosmetic Science:

• The speaker's personal experiences fueled her interest in scientific research.
• Her first job involved clinical research and cosmetic formulation at a medical-grade skincare brand and its partner manufacturer.
• She observed that many brands made efficacy claims for all skin tones without testing on all skin tones.
• Sunscreen formulations were not designed to blend well into darker skin tones, leading to white cast issues.
• She realized that inclusive marketing alone wouldn't solve the problem; inclusive science was necessary.

5. Taking Action and Focusing on Inclusive Science:

• The speaker left her job to focus on cosmetic science research specifically addressing the needs of dark-skinned consumers.
• She acknowledges that cosmetic science may not be as highly regarded as other scientific fields like immunology.
• She emphasizes the urgency to accelerate the development of cosmetic science, given that it takes 20-50 years for a field to develop.

6. Research and Data:

• She secured a $5,650 research grant to demonstrate that hyperpigmentation treatments take longer to show efficacy on darker skin tones compared to lighter skin tones.
• A 2022 Aino study revealed that 48% of African-American consumers struggle to find skincare products that meet their racial and ethnic needs.
• A McKinsey & Co. study found that Black consumers are almost three times more likely to be dissatisfied with product offerings than White consumers.

7. Current Work and Future Goals:

• The speaker is now a PhD candidate in chemistry at UCLA, focusing on sunscreen challenges.
• Her research addresses white cast interactions with the skin microbiome and aims to create safer suncare materials.
• She is the CEO of Sula Labs, an R&D lab that closes inclusivity gaps in the beauty industry through product development and clinical testing for brands focusing on melanin-rich consumers and textured hair.

8. Economic Opportunity and Challenges:

• Addressing racial inequity in the beauty industry represents a $2.6 billion opportunity, according to McKinsey & Co.
• Black-owned beauty brands return 89 times more than non-Black-owned brands but receive half the venture capital funding.
• The speaker acknowledges the challenges and sacrifices in her journey but hopes to build a world where everyone feels seen and heard in their own skin.

9. Conclusion:

• The speaker emphasizes that the cosmetic science industry has barely scratched the surface of addressing all skin tones.
• She envisions beauty shelves that are inclusive and representative of diverse skin tones.
• She advocates for a future where scientific research ensures that everyone feels seen and heard in their own skin.