With Isabella Bird—Part 7: On the Road to Ise - Journeys in Japan

Journeys in Japan: Retracing Isabella Bird’s Steps – A Detailed Summary

Key Concepts:

• Isabella Bird: A 19th-century British explorer and writer, known for her travelogues, particularly Unbeaten Tracks in Japan.
• Isa Jingu: Japan’s most famous Shinto shrine, a major pilgrimage destination.
• Nara (Natada): An ancient capital of Japan, renowned for its historical sites, shrines, and wild deer.
• Shosoin: An ancient repository housing imperial treasures.
• Eay (Ise): Considered the cradle of the ancient Shinto faith, home to the Ise Grand Shrine.
• Hi Kaido Highway: An old highway leading to Isa Jingu Shrine.
• Oni: Shinto priests who coordinated pilgrimages to Isa Jingu.
• Unbeaten Tracks in Japan: Isabella Bird’s book detailing her experiences in Japan, written as letters to her sister.
• Shosoin Monoch: Auspicious designs, including deer motifs, used in crafts and textiles.

1. Introduction: Following in Isabella Bird’s Footsteps

The program follows Rachel Agi as she retraces portions of Isabella Bird’s 1878 journey through Japan, specifically focusing on her travels from Nara (Natada) to Ise (Eay). Bird, a 47-year-old British traveler, documented her experiences in Unbeaten Tracks in Japan, a book written in the form of letters to her sister. The initial segment establishes the setting – the picturesque hills surrounding Nara City, with views reminiscent of English parks, and highlights the blend of natural beauty and religious art. Bird’s journey began in Yokohama and spanned six months, with half of that time spent in northern Japan. The program aims to explore Japan through Bird’s eyes, examining how the country has changed – and remained the same – over the past 140 years.

2. Nara: Deer, Shosoin, and Traditional Crafts

Nara, located 380 km west of Tokyo, is presented as a historically rich city surrounded by mountains. Bird visited Nara in autumn with an American missionary’s wife as her interpreter. The program focuses on Nara Park, famous for its wild deer, revered as messengers of the deities since ancient times. Bird noted their persistent begging for cakes, a behavior still observed today. While Bird didn’t extensively write about the Great Buddha or Kasuga Taisha Shrine (already well-known), she focused on Shosoin, a 1,200-year-old repository containing approximately 9,000 imperial treasures, including musical instruments and fabrics. The program emphasizes the remarkable preservation of both the building and its contents, comparing it to the hypothetical treasures of Charlemagne or Alfred the Great. Access to Shosoin remains restricted, but the program highlights local artisans who create crafts inspired by Shosoin treasures, specifically Natada Uchiwa fans. These fans feature deer motifs copied from Shosoin designs, part of a tradition of auspicious designs (Shosoin monoch) that gained popularity around the time of Bird’s visit. Ikada Tarashi, a sixth-generation fan maker, demonstrates the intricate openwork carving process, requiring exceptional skill and precision to cut through 20 sheets of washi paper. The fans originated from designs used in religious rituals at Kasuga Taisha Shrine and later became popular for everyday use.

3. Sakurai and Heda Temple: A Swiss-Like Landscape

The program then moves to the H district of Sakurai City, 25 km south of Nara. Bird described the area as resembling Switzerland, a sentiment echoed by the program’s host. The street is now lined with shops selling kusamoi, traditional Japanese sweets. Heda Temple, founded in the second half of the 7th century, requires a climb of 399 stairs to reach the main worship hall. The program emphasizes the unexpected beauty of the location and reflects on how Bird might have felt discovering such a place “off the beaten track.”

4. Sambon Matsu and the Nushia Inn: A Glimpse into Pilgrim Life

Fifteen kilometers east of Heda, in Uda City, lies Sambon Matsu, situated along the old Hi Kaido Highway leading to Isa Jingu Shrine. Bird sought accommodation here, finding an inn called Nushia. The program locates and visits the remarkably well-preserved Nushia Inn, noting its historical significance as a lodging for pilgrims traveling to Isa Jingu during the Edo period. The host obtains special permission to enter the inn, observing that while time seems to stand still today, the alleys were once bustling with pilgrims. Bird described arriving in darkness and having to shout to get the innkeeper’s attention.

5. Ise Jingu: Simplicity, Spirituality, and a Pilgrimage Destination

The journey culminates in Ise (Eay), described by Bird as the “cradle of the ancient faith.” Ise Jingu consists of two main shrines, Niku (the inner shrine) and Gekku (the outer shrine), located 4 km apart. Niku is believed to date back 2,000 years and is rebuilt every 20 years to provide the deities with a new home. The program highlights the significance of the pilgrimage to Isa Jingu (Isay Midi), a once-in-a-lifetime journey for many Japanese people. Pilgrims would first visit Gekku to pray for daily life and then proceed to Niku to worship the supreme deity. Bird, however, found Ise Jingu surprisingly simple and lacking in glamour, a sentiment the program explores further. The program emphasizes the shrine’s spiritual energy and the ancient cedar trees surrounding it, noting its reputation as a “power spot.”

6. The Oni and the Historical Context of Pilgrimage

The program explains the role of the Oni, Shinto priests who coordinated pilgrimages to Isa Jingu, traveling across the country to gather believers and arrange their journeys. During the Edo period, Isa Jingu attracted up to 4 million worshippers annually. The street leading to Niku, Ohara Machi, was once lined with guest houses run by the Oni, now replaced by restaurants and cafes. The program highlights the historical context of pilgrimage, noting that it was also an opportunity for travel and enjoyment.

7. Local Crafts and Everyday Life: Egangu and Rickshaw Pullers

The program explores local crafts and everyday life during Bird’s time. It features egangu, traditional spinning tops made from local wood, which pilgrims purchased as souvenirs. The program recalls Bird’s observation of a rickshaw puller who bought toys for his children, suggesting that these shops might have existed during her visit. Bird also noted the question posed to her about her own faith: if they worshipped her God, would they have to travel to her country?

8. Conclusion: Resilience, Respect, and a Blending of Past and Present

The program concludes by reflecting on the resilience of the Japanese people and their ability to enjoy life despite challenges. It emphasizes the seamless blending of ancient culture with the present, creating a mysterious and captivating atmosphere. The host expresses hope that visitors will approach these historical sites with respect and curiosity, mindful of local customs. The program ends with a symbolic act of purification – washing hands in a river before paying respects at the inner shrine. Travel time from Tokyo to Nara is noted as approximately 2.5 hours by Shinkansen to Kyoto, followed by a 45-minute express train ride to Nara.

Notable Quotes:

• “Among the many interesting things are a number of sacred deer which wander about the majestic groves and avenues and follow one about greedily begging for cakes which their pertinacity compels one to buy.” – Isabella Bird, describing the deer in Nara Park.
• “And having worshiped at Eay and purchased many charms for friends and neighbors, he will go home with a glad heart.” – Isabella Bird, describing a rickshaw puller.
• “It was all so unexpected, so off the beaten track of foreign travel.” – Rachel Agi, reflecting on the experience of visiting Heda Temple.

Technical Terms & Concepts:

• Shinto: The indigenous religion of Japan, emphasizing reverence for nature and ancestors.
• Washi: Traditional Japanese paper, known for its strength and beauty.
• Shosoin Monoch: Auspicious designs used in crafts and textiles.
• Hi Kaido Highway: An old highway leading to Isa Jingu Shrine.
• Isay Midi: The pilgrimage to Isa Jingu.
• Gekku & Niku: The outer and inner shrines of Ise Jingu, respectively.
• Oni: Shinto priests who coordinated pilgrimages to Isa Jingu.
• Edo Period: A period in Japanese history (1603-1868) characterized by peace and prosperity.
• Majii Era: The Meiji period (1868-1912) marked by rapid modernization and westernization.
• Shinkansen: Japan’s high-speed rail network.