Why Tokyo is the Food Capital of the World | Foreign Correspondent

Key Concepts

• Shokunin: The Japanese concept of a craftsman's pursuit of perfection.
• Umami: One of the five basic tastes, often described as savory.
• Tsukemen: A style of ramen where the noodles are dipped in a separate bowl of broth.
• Onigiri: Japanese rice balls with flavored fillings, wrapped in seaweed.
• Kaizen: Continuous improvement.

Tokyo: Culinary Capital of the World

Introduction

Tokyo has become the number one global destination for food lovers, boasting nearly 200,000 restaurants. Its culinary scene ranges from high-end dining to affordable snacks, with food considered a fine art and an obsession. Tokyo holds the title of having more Michelin-star restaurants than any other city, surpassing Paris, and attracts a record number of tourists seeking a taste of its cuisine.

The Importance of Produce: Toyosu Fish Market

The secret to Tokyo's culinary reputation begins with the produce, particularly the seafood available at the Toyosu fish market. At 3 AM, traders prepare to sell some of the world's best fish, worth tens of thousands of dollars. Yukitaka Yamaguchi, a tuna expert, can identify the origin of a fish simply by its taste. He has built a multi-million-dollar empire over four decades, being highly selective about the tuna he buys and sells, ensuring it meets his standards.

Centuries-Old Traditions: Eel Restaurant

Centuries-old traditions and intensive training contribute to the uniqueness of Japanese food. A 220-year-old eel restaurant exemplifies this, where 96-year-old master Kanejiro Kanemoto has dedicated his life to perfecting a single dish. His chefs, including his son-in-law and grandson, prepare and cook around 600 eels daily, overseen by Kanejiro. Techniques like fanning the coals by hand remain unchanged for hundreds of years. The restaurant's prized sauce, perfected over a lifetime, was even stored in bomb shelters during World War II.

The Pursuit of Perfection: Sushi Chef Mei Kogo

Mei Kogo, a rising star in the sushi world, exemplifies the Japanese concept of "shokunin," the pursuit of perfection. She carefully prepares fish selected by Yukitaka, understanding the immense responsibility involved. Her restaurant is booked out for months, a significant achievement in a traditionally male-dominated industry.

Ramen Obsession: Osamu Tomita's Tsukemen

The Japanese obsession with perfection extends beyond high-end dining. At a ramen restaurant on the city's outskirts, customers wait hours for a seat to taste Osamu Tomita's "tsukemen" or dipping noodles. Osamu has spent 20 years tinkering with the types of flour he uses to make his noodles, emphasizing that every detail matters. He believes the drive to keep customers happy is central to the Japanese spirit.

Social Media Influence: Yuka Hayakawa's Onigiri

Social media plays a significant role in promoting Tokyo's food scene. Young chefs like Yuka Hayakawa are capitalizing on this trend. Yuka specializes in onigiri, a traditional Japanese comfort food, made with a modern flair and promoted through social media. She opened her restaurant to honor her family's history and aims to stand out in the competitive culinary landscape.

Conclusion

Tokyo's culinary success is attributed to a combination of factors: the quality of its produce, centuries-old traditions, the relentless pursuit of perfection ("shokunin"), and the embrace of modern trends like social media marketing. Chefs like Mei Kogo and Osamu Tomita embody this dedication, constantly striving to improve and provide the best possible experience for their customers. The quest to be the best is a continuous journey, driving Tokyo's reputation as the culinary capital of the world.

Notable Quotes

• Yukitaka Yamaguchi: (Regarding tuna) "can tell where a fish comes from simply by its taste."
• Mei Kogo: (Explaining "shokunin") "It means 'craftsman'. And it's often used to describe a chef's pursuit of perfection."
• Osamu Tomita: (On the importance of noodles) "Everyone always thinks about the soup with ramen. Is the noodle just as important?"