Why the traditional kokoshnik headdress is en vogue - The Global Jigsaw podcast, BBC World Service

Key Concepts

Russian Cultural Code: A new, officially promoted concept in Russia aiming to define Russian identity, emphasizing higher moral purpose, collectivism, and distinctiveness from the West.
Kokoshnik: A traditional Russian folk headdress, now re-emerging as a symbol of Russian identity and national pride, promoted by authorities.
Folk Artefacts/Revival: A broader trend of re-embracing traditional Russian elements in fashion and culture, including lapti (bark shoes), kosovorotkas (peasant shirts), and sarafans (peasant dresses).
Patriotic Wave: A surge in nationalistic sentiment and expression, particularly evident since the collapse of the Soviet Union and amplified by current geopolitical events.
State-Sponsored Culture: The use of cultural production (film, music, fashion, social media) by the Russian state to promote specific ideologies, national unity, and traditional values.
Censorship and Control: Mechanisms employed by the state to filter and shape cultural output, mirroring Soviet-era practices, to align with official narratives.
Nostalgia: A sentiment for the past, including both folk traditions and a romanticized view of the Soviet era, used as a guiding principle for national identity.
"Russia First" Mentality: A growing emphasis on domestic production, travel, and cultural expression, partly driven by sanctions and international isolation.

The "Russian Cultural Code": A New National Identity

The concept of the "Russian cultural code" has emerged as a prominent, albeit vaguely defined, catchphrase in Moscow circles, intended to articulate what it means to be Russian. This idea, which many Russians themselves struggle to define, has permeated various aspects of life, including entertainment, cinema, music, art, fashion, and social media. It is not a grassroots movement but rather a concept actively promoted by President Putin and the state.

Putin's Definition and Core Tenets

Since approximately 2014, President Putin has repeatedly articulated his vision of the "Russian cultural code." He posits that Russians, unlike people elsewhere, possess a "higher moral purpose," are "less calculated" and "less pragmatic." Their focus, according to Putin, is not on self-interest but on "help to other people," a characteristic he attributes to both the "cultural and genetic code" of Russians. This framing positions Russians as inherently distinct from and, implicitly, superior to the West.

The Kokoshnik: A Symbol of Resurgent Russianness

The resurgence of the kokoshnik, a traditional Russian folk headdress, serves as a key example of the "Russian cultural code" manifesting in fashion. Yulia Volovik, a researcher with an interest in Russian fashion, highlights the kokoshnik as a symbol of Russian identity. Historically, it was a status indicator, worn at social gatherings and often inherited. Its association with fairy tale characters like Vasilisa Prekrasnaya and Snegurochka (the Russian Snow White) imbues it with cultural significance.

Historical Context of the Kokoshnik:

Peter the Great: Banned the kokoshnik at court while promoting Westernization.
Nicholas I (1833): Introduced the kokoshnik by royal decree for ladies at court, leading to its adoption by the upper class.
Modern Revival: The kokoshnik has seen a significant increase in popularity, evidenced by a near doubling of Yandex searches between August 2023 and July 2025, and over 116,000 Instagram posts with the hashtag.

The kokoshnik's modern iteration includes stylized, sleek versions and everyday wearability in materials like leather and velvet. Its return is seen as a statement of national identity, a symbol of Russian culture, and, importantly, a representation of what the government and authorities endorse, thus promoting conformity.

Pioneers of the New Style

Government officials and public figures are actively incorporating this "Russianness" into their public image. Notable examples include:

Maria Lvova-Belova: Russia's children's rights ombudswoman, wore a kokoshnik to meet Putin.
Ksenia Goryacheva: A State Duma deputy, wears kokoshniks to parliamentary sessions.
Anna Tsivilyova: Deputy Defence Minister, has been observed incorporating military symbols into her attire, reflecting Russia's wartime context.

The fusion of rustic elements with military flair creates a "patriotic capsule collection." The kokoshnik's visibility was amplified during the 2018 Football World Cup held in Russia, where female fans widely adopted it. Brands like "Patriotka" (meaning patriot) promote kokoshniks on social media, and designers like Alona Akhmadullina have created bold, statement pieces from fur.

The War and the Return to the Past

A fashion historian suggests that patriotic moods often rise before major wars, drawing parallels to the early 20th century when similar garments were popular before World War I. This perspective links the revival of old symbols and garments to the nurturing of patriotic feelings, potentially to justify the ongoing war.

However, there's also an argument for a genuine, independent interest in folk tradition and history that predates the war. This trend, which began after the collapse of the Soviet Union, is visible not only in fashion but also in films and music. For those who grew up in the Soviet Union, where folk art was often presented in a diluted form, this can be seen as an "overcompensation" and a rediscovery of ethnic roots.

The "Russian Cultural Code" Beyond Fashion

The "Russian cultural code" is not confined to fashion; it is a pervasive theme influencing music, books, and daily life.

Defining the "Cultural Code"

While many Russians are unsure of its precise meaning, it is generally described as Russia's cultural heritage, traditions, mentality, shared values, or norms of behavior and upbringing. It encompasses the meaning attributed to signs, words, phrases, gestures, or symbols.

Ideological Appropriation and Existential Weight

For Russian authorities, particularly Putin, the "cultural code" transcends mere cultural heritage. It carries an "existential weight," defining Russians as distinct from and superior to the West. Putin's 2012 discourse on preserving "civilizational identity" and the "Russian cultural dominance" under attack from the West, frames the current situation as a struggle for survival. The war in Ukraine is even described as a path to "cleansing and renewal."

Putin's National Development Strategy for 2012-2025 emphasizes uniting the diverse ethnic traditions of Russia into a single Russian culture. He deliberately conflates the "cultural code" with the "genetic code," stating in 2014 that Russians believe in a "higher moral purpose" and focus on helping others, a trait embedded in their very being. This emphasizes the deep-rooted, innate nature of these perceived Russian characteristics.

Gender Roles and Traditional Values

The "cultural code" also dictates specific gender roles. Putin has emphasized the distinctiveness of being a woman in Russia, separate from being a man, and stressed the importance of respect for parents, country, elders, and the motherland as pillars of Russian stability. These interpretations are intertwined with heavy state censorship and propaganda, serving to unite Russia, especially during times of war and international isolation.

State Promotion and Digital Foot Soldiers

The concept has been embraced by other high-ranking officials:

Valentina Matviyenko: Head of the Federation Council, links the cultural code to children's education and Russia's future as a great power.
Sergei Lavrov: Uses the concept to bolster the idea of a multipolar world where the West is no longer dominant.

The state actively enlists "digital foot soldiers" to disseminate the "Russian cultural code." This includes:

Fashion and Travel Bloggers: Promoting Russian brands and domestic travel, particularly relevant given sanctions limiting international travel.
Ultra-Patriotic Bloggers: Creating content focused on Putin, military parades, and patriotic themes.
Orthodox Priests and "Wives of Priests": Emerging as bloggers promoting traditional values and religious teachings in a youth-friendly manner, often blending fashion content with spiritual advice.

While not all influencers are directly funded, participation in state-sanctioned events, such as roundtable discussions on promoting the cultural code in the blogosphere, and membership in bodies like the Council of Bloggers (founded in 2020 and cooperating with parliament), indicate state influence. Many of these bloggers have over a million subscribers and promote Russian narratives, propaganda, and collect aid for soldiers in Ukraine.

The government actively cultivates new bloggers through "blogger boot camps" and initiatives like a 2024 registry for bloggers promoting traditional and patriotic values. State support comes with conditions, including registration with Roskomnadzor (a state watchdog) for Telegram bloggers with over 10,000 followers. Failure to register can result in the inability to accept donations or advertise. Advertisers are also advised to vet content for compliance. Bloggers are urged to promote Russian culture domestically and abroad, with a degree of self-censorship being a pragmatic necessity for those wishing to operate within Russia.

Traditional Media's Role

Post-invasion, new fashion magazines like "Moskvichka" (Muscovite) have emerged, self-identifying as "post-sanctions glam." These publications idealize life in Russia, promote domestic tourism, and glorify life within the country. While they may feature elements like kokoshniks, they do not overtly push propaganda on women's roles or specific values, though they do promote a vision of life in the "new reality."

Cultural Production and State Control

The "Russian cultural code" is being integrated into various cultural spheres, with significant state investment and policy directives.

Cinema, Culture, and Domestic Brands

Film Production: Russia plans to allocate over 460 million rubles ($6 million) annually to support domestic films promoting "spiritual and moral values."
"Know Ours" Contest: This initiative supports domestic brands, especially after the departure of Western brands. A "cultural code" category was established in 2025 to empower brands incorporating this concept.
Video Games and Toys: The government supports patriotic video games and proposes bans on imported children's toys deemed to promote "alien cultural values."

Parallels with Soviet-Era Censorship

The current situation echoes the Soviet Union's use of culture as an ideological weapon. In the USSR, censorship was managed by bodies like Glavlit (approving publications) and Goskino (approving scripts and films). Unions of writers, artists, and composers also acted as ideological filters, restricting access for non-members. This mirrors the current system of expert councils deciding on grants and licenses, and the Ministry of Culture refusing distribution certificates for films that distort historical truth or promote "non-traditional values."

The Russian Book Union has warned shops about increased fines for selling books by "foreign agents," leading to their removal from sale. Artists opposing the war face concert cancellations, criminal charges, and often exile.

Prosecution of Artists

The case of theatre creators Zhenya Berkovich and Svetlana Petriychuk, jailed for six years for their play "Finist the Bright Falcon," exemplifies the state's prosecution of artists for their ideas. The legal action is described as the first of its kind since the Soviet era, where intentions are deemed more serious than actions because they "hurt our entire mythology."

What is Permitted?

The boundaries of acceptable expression are defined by what Putin deems good: love for the motherland, respect for traditional values, and the preservation of "historic memory" as dictated by the state, regardless of factual accuracy.

Public Reception and Emerging Trends

While reliable data on the extent of public adoption is scarce, there are indications of interest in the "Russian cultural code."

Growing Interest in Russian Brands: Yandex searches suggest a rising interest in Russian-style brands among Russian youth.
Nadezhda Kadysheva Phenomenon: The unexpected popularity of the folk singer Nadezhda Kadysheva on TikTok, with young people creating videos to her songs, demonstrates a post-ironic embrace of traditional Russian music. Her concerts are now attracting larger venues.

"Russia First" and Domestic Tourism

The "Russia First" mentality, partly driven by sanctions, has also influenced vacation choices.

"Monastering": A trend where young people spend vacations in monasteries, engaging in physical labor, prayer, and silence to reduce anxiety and escape city life. This is described as an Orthodox equivalent of a Buddhist retreat.

Nostalgia and "Soviet Chic"

Nostalgia for the past, encompassing both folk traditions and a romanticized "Soviet chic," serves as a compass for Russian greatness. This nostalgia is for a polished, idealized version of the Soviet era, not a genuine desire for its ideology or political systems.

The concept of the "Russian cultural code" is linked to figures like Stierlitz, a fictional Soviet agent embodying dedication to the motherland above all else. Putin's own understanding of this code is shaped by the USSR era, which prioritized the collective over the individual and used culture as a state tool to promote communist values and patriotism.

Culture as a State Tool

In contemporary Russia, culture has largely returned to serving state goals: forming civic identity, educating citizens, and strengthening societal unity. The state cultural policy emphasizes preserving traditional values and resisting "pseudo-culture" (a Kremlin term for globalist Western culture). Russia is positioned internationally as a custodian of traditional spiritual and moral values. Culture is viewed as a means of constructing citizens' mindsets and values, and as a weapon in confrontation with the West, mirroring its role in the USSR.

The "Russian cultural code" is being actively used as a vehicle for ideology, shaping narratives across fashion, music, film, and social media, with significant implications for Russian identity and its place in the world.