Why is K-Beauty booming? | The Global Story Podcast

Key Concepts

• K-Beauty: The Korean beauty industry, characterized by innovative skincare products, a focus on achieving “glass skin,” and a multi-step routine.
• Soft Power: The use of cultural influence to achieve foreign policy objectives, as employed by the South Korean government.
• Glass Skin: A highly sought-after complexion in K-beauty, characterized by clarity, smoothness, and a luminous, almost translucent appearance.
• Neo-Confucianism: A revived form of Confucianism that emphasizes social harmony, respect for elders, and self-cultivation, influencing the Korean emphasis on appearance as a form of respect.
• K-Wave (Hallyu): The global popularity of South Korean culture, including music (K-pop), drama (K-dramas), and beauty products.
• Olive Young: A dominant drugstore chain in South Korea specializing in beauty and health products.

The Rise of K-Beauty: A Global Phenomenon & Soft Power Strategy

The K-beauty industry has experienced a significant boom, becoming a major global force, particularly in the United States. As of this year, the US imports more cosmetics from South Korea than any other country, marking a turning point in the global beauty market. This growth isn’t accidental; it’s deeply intertwined with a deliberate soft power strategy initiated by the South Korean government.

The Early Days & Cultural Context (Post-Korean War – 1990s)

Following the Korean War and subsequent periods of colonization and occupation, a small domestic K-beauty industry began to emerge. Companies like Amore Pacific were founded during this postwar period. However, Korean consumers with disposable income often preferred French and American brands like Estée Lauder and Clinique, viewing them as more desirable. This created a situation where foreign brands were imported into Korea, rather than K-beauty being exported.

A key aspect of Korean culture contributing to the emphasis on appearance is the influence of Neo-Confucian ideals. This philosophy emphasizes respecting ancestors and the body they provided, translating into a generational focus on skincare and preventing sun damage. Alisa, the NPR correspondent, noted experiencing a heightened awareness of her appearance in South Korea, with frequent, direct comments on her physical attributes – a stark contrast to social norms in the US. She recounted instances of being addressed as “Kunai, Kunai” (“big size, big size”) in certain areas, highlighting the cultural difference in discussing appearance.

The Government’s Role & The Birth of the K-Wave (1990s – 2011)

In the 1990s, South Korea sought to diversify its economy beyond manufacturing and technology. A government report revealed that the economic impact of producing a movie on the scale of Jurassic Park would equal the production of 1.5 million Korean cars. This realization led to increased government investment in cultural industries, recognizing the potential economic benefits of “Korean coolness.”

The 1997 Asian financial crisis further accelerated this strategy. Facing bankruptcy and an IMF bailout, South Korea doubled down on cultural production. This deliberate push resulted in the emergence of the “K-Wave” (Hallyu), encompassing K-pop, K-dramas, and eventually, K-beauty. Initially, K-beauty’s success was an unintended consequence of this broader cultural strategy. The government later began to actively support the export-focused K-beauty industry through subsidies and tax breaks.

The First K-Beauty Wave & American Adoption (2015)

The first significant wave of K-beauty interest abroad occurred around 2015, coinciding with Alisa’s arrival in Seoul to open NPR’s Northeast Asia bureau. She observed tourists filling suitcases with skincare and makeup products to bring back home. This period saw the rise of Korean-American brands like Soo Glam, Peach and Lily, and Glow Recipe, which leveraged blogging and e-commerce to introduce K-beauty to American audiences. The debut of BTS also played a role in increasing awareness.

The Second Boost & TikTok’s Influence (2023-2025)

K-beauty experienced a renewed surge in popularity driven largely by TikTok and the continued success of K-culture. The global phenomenon of K-pop groups like Demon Hunters and the popularity of Squid Game significantly boosted interest in Korean products. In the first half of 2025, South Korean cosmetic exports jumped 15%, largely due to increased demand in the US and Europe. This unexpected growth has led to increased presence of K-beauty brands in major US retailers like Costco, Ulta, and Sephora, and the planned opening of an Olive Young store in 2026.

K-Beauty as Soft Power: Economic & Cultural Impact

South Korea surpassed France in 2025 to become the world’s second-largest beauty exporter. This success has significant economic benefits, contributing to the country’s export-driven economy. Beyond economics, K-beauty contributes to South Korea’s broader soft power influence, alongside successes in film (Parasite winning Oscars) and television (Squid Game on Netflix). Korean stars are increasingly sought after globally.

Effectiveness & Shifting Beauty Standards

The effectiveness of K-beauty products is supported by their continued popularity within Korea, where consumers are highly discerning. Products that deliver results gain traction through word-of-mouth and generational knowledge.

Alisa also reflected on the impact of K-beauty’s popularity on Asian-American identity. She noted a sense of affirmation seeing children dressing up as K-pop idols for Halloween, contrasting with her own experiences growing up and feeling pressure to assimilate to Western beauty standards. The mixing of global beauty ideals is seen as a positive development, fostering a greater acceptance of diverse appearances. However, she also expressed concern about the potential for beauty culture to instill insecurities in young girls, reinforcing the idea that their worth is tied to their appearance.

Notable Quote

“K beauty is a consequence… It's a externality that they didn't expect to be as big.” – Alisa, regarding K-beauty’s emergence as a result of the government’s broader cultural strategy.

Conclusion:

The rise of K-beauty is a compelling example of how cultural influence can be strategically leveraged for economic and political gain. Driven by a combination of government support, innovative products, a unique cultural emphasis on skincare, and the global reach of K-pop and K-dramas, K-beauty has transformed the global beauty landscape and solidified South Korea’s position as a major cultural and economic power. However, it’s crucial to critically examine the potential downsides of a culture so focused on appearance and its impact on self-esteem and body image, particularly among young people.