Why Geylang Is Singapore's Secret Foodie Paradise | Singapore Hour

Key Concepts:

Geylang, Singapore; Lorong (lanes); Shophouses; Traditional Trades; Migrant Workers; Tintype Photography; Wet Plate Photography; Citizen Adventures (walking tour company); Red-Light District; Brothel Design Guidelines; Midnight Supper Spots; Durian; Social Entrepreneurship.

Geylang: A Lifelong Resident's Perspective

Cai Yinzhou, a social entrepreneur and lifelong resident of Geylang, introduces the neighborhood as a place of history, culture, and contradictions. He emphasizes his deep connection to Geylang, highlighting its unique character and diverse aspects.

• Breakfast at a Local Coffee Shop: Yinzhou starts at his favorite coffee shop, a local institution frequented by taxi drivers, including his father. He showcases a quintessential Singaporean breakfast set: soft-boiled eggs and coffee.
• Geylang's Unique Layout: Geylang, located in the central region of Singapore, is one of the oldest neighborhoods. Its lanes, called "lorong," are organized in a grid system, numbered like a chessboard, making navigation easy.
• Conserved Shophouses: The neighborhood features intricately conserved shophouses built in the early 1900s, retaining original motifs, tiles, and structures.

Eng Tiang Huat: A Cultural Shop

Yinzhou visits Jeff, who runs Eng Tiang Huat, a cultural shop dedicated to traditional trades and artifacts rooted in Chinese heritage.

• Family Business: Jeff's grandfather started the business almost 87 years ago. He lives upstairs and runs the business downstairs, in a shophouse.
• Traditional Instruments: The shop features rare musical instruments, including the "coconut fiddle" (Yehu in Mandarin).
• Vanishing Trade: Jeff acknowledges that his trade is vanishing but is encouraged by passionate people interested in old arts, culture, and traditions.

Migrant Worker Community

Yinzhou highlights the significant role of migrant workers in Geylang.

• Community Integration: Growing up in Geylang, Yinzhou played badminton with migrant workers, emphasizing their integration into the neighborhood.
• Sunday Volleyball Games: Every Sunday, migrant workers gather to play sports, especially volleyball. Hossain, a worker from Bangladesh who has been in Singapore for 18 years, explains that volleyball is a way to combat boredom on his day off and connect with friends from various countries (Philippines, Indonesia, Myanmar, Bangladesh, and India).
• Heartbeat of Geylang: Yinzhou considers the migrant worker community the "heartbeat" of Geylang, contributing to the neighborhood's life and culture.

Hip Xiong Photo Studio: Tintype Photography

Yinzhou visits Ryan, the founder of Hip Xiong Photo Studio, Singapore's first and only tintype portrait studio.

• Wet Plate Photography: Ryan uses wet plate photography, an old form of photography invented in 1851, predating film.
• Slow and Delicate Process: The process is slow and time-consuming, involving shooting directly onto a metal plate.
• Affordable Rent: Ryan appreciates Geylang's relatively affordable rent compared to other areas in Singapore.

Citizen Adventures: Walking Tours

Yinzhou runs a walking tour company called Citizen Adventures, taking people through neighborhoods like Geylang to uncover hidden stories.

• Personal Connection: The tour started with friends and grew by word of mouth, driven by Yinzhou's desire to share his knowledge of Geylang.
• Three-Hour Walking Tour: The tour typically lasts three hours and involves a lot of walking.
• Midnight Supper Spots: The tour includes stops at famous midnight supper spots, such as Tan Ser Seng (Lorong 21 Geylang) for turtle soup.

Durian and the Red-Light District

Yinzhou discusses two other notable aspects of Geylang: durian and the red-light district.

• Durian Stalls: Geylang has many durian stalls, offering varieties like Musang King, Black Gold, Black Thorn, and Tupai King. Durian is a family tradition for Yinzhou.
• Red-Light District: Geylang is known for its red-light district, a raw and complex part of the neighborhood's identity. Legalized brothels operate under government oversight with specific brothel design guidelines (no signboards). The even-numbered lanes are where the red-light district is concentrated.

The Skewer Bar: A New Age Eatery

The tour concludes at The Skewer Bar, a new age eatery with an extensive yakitori and seafood selection.

• Skepticism Turned Opportunity: The founders were initially skeptical about opening in Geylang but realized the presence of expats and locals made it a viable location.

Conclusion:

Yinzhou concludes that Geylang is a raw and real neighborhood with something for everyone, depending on what they seek. He emphasizes his love for the neighborhood's diversity and authenticity. Crime rates have dropped drastically due to increased lights, cameras, and enforcement, making Geylang a very liveable environment.