Why are people holidaying in North Korea? - What in the World podcast, BBC World Service

North Korea's Wonsan Kalma Resort: A Glimpse into Luxury and Control

Key Concepts:

• Wonsan Kalma Resort: A new seaside resort in North Korea aimed at attracting foreign tourists.
• Kim Family: The three generations ruling North Korea, who have historically used the Wonsan area as a private retreat.
• Controlled Tourism: The highly regulated environment for foreign visitors in North Korea, typically involving government guides and restrictions on movement and photography.
• Forced Labor: Allegations of workers, including soldiers and students, being made to work long hours with little or no pay in unsafe conditions during the resort's construction.
• Foreign Currency: North Korea's need to earn foreign currency without violating international sanctions.

Overview of Wonsan Kalma Resort

The Wonsan Kalma resort, located on North Korea's east coast in Kangwon Province, is a new luxury destination. The resort boasts over 7000 rooms across hotels, private villas, and mid-range accommodations. Amenities include a water park with slides, sports stadiums, theaters, and shopping arcades. The location is historically significant as a private retreat for the Kim family. The resort is situated on sandy beaches overlooking the East Sea, with green hills and mountains in the background, linking to the Kumgang mountain area.

The Paradox of Luxury and Missiles

The resort is located near the Wonsan Test Facility, one of North Korea's most active missile launch locations. This facility has been used to test short-range and medium-range missiles, reportedly designed to hit targets in South Korea and Japan. Kim Jong Un's personal connection to Wonsan, where he reportedly spent his childhood, adds another layer to this paradox. By testing missiles in Wonsan, Kim Jong Un mixes the image of leisure and luxury with military power, subtly asserting control over his "home turf."

The Russian Tourist Experience

In July, a small group of Russian tourists were the first foreigners allowed to visit the resort. These package deals cost around $1800 USD, significantly more than the average monthly wage in Russia. Anastasia Samsonova, a Russian tourist, described a highly curated experience:

• Organized Activities: Electric cars transported guests to the beach, with scheduled meals and activities.
• Pristine Environment: The beach featured incredibly white sand, cleaned daily, with new beach loungers.
• Amenities: A bottle of local beer cost about $0.60, with Heineken, Japanese beer, and Baltika also available.
• Souvenirs: North Korean Olympic team uniforms were a popular souvenir.
• Restrictions: While seemingly free to roam within the resort, swimming in the sea was prohibited due to strong currents.

Anastasia noted that she didn't witness any missile launches during her stay and that her phone wasn't checked upon entry or exit. The only restrictions were related to photographing statues of leaders (no mimicking poses) and avoiding construction sites.

Controlled Tourism and Special Cases

North Korea is known for its highly controlled tourism environment. Typically, visitors are assigned government guides who dictate their itinerary, interactions, and even photography. Anastasia's experience was likely a special case due to the high-profile opening week and the friendly relationship between North Korea and Russia. The resort itself is a sealed-off environment, allowing authorities to relax restrictions within its perimeter while keeping guests away from ordinary towns and villages.

Motivations for Opening the Resort

Several factors contribute to North Korea's decision to open the Wonsan Kalma resort:

• Strengthening Ties with Russia: Russia is one of North Korea's closest allies, with growing military cooperation.
• Earning Foreign Currency: Tourism is a way for North Korea to earn foreign currency without violating international sanctions.
• Showcasing a Luxury Image: The resort aims to present a different image of North Korea, one of luxury and leisure, to attract more tourists.

Human Rights Concerns and Forced Labor

The Wonsan Kalma project has faced criticism from human rights groups due to allegations of forced labor during construction. Workers, including soldiers and possibly school students, were reportedly made to work long hours with little or no pay, sometimes in unsafe conditions. This aligns with a broader pattern in North Korea, where constant work is demanded regardless of weather or safety, and refusal is not an option. North Korea has not responded to these allegations.

Future Prospects for Tourism

Despite the current restrictions, North Korea may be seeking to attract more tourists from other nationalities in the future, especially given its need for foreign currency. The easing tensions between North and South Korea could potentially lead to South Korean tourists visiting the resort as well.

Conclusion

The Wonsan Kalma resort represents a complex intersection of luxury, control, and political messaging. While offering a glimpse into a seemingly idyllic vacation experience, it also highlights the strict regulations and human rights concerns within North Korea. The resort's opening reflects North Korea's desire to earn foreign currency and project a different image to the world, while maintaining tight control over its citizens and visitors.