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Key Concepts

• Americanized Chinese Cuisine: Dishes like Chop Suey and General Tso’s Chicken adapted for American palates.
• Fortune Cookies: A uniquely American invention, despite being associated with Chinese restaurants, produced primarily by companies like Wanton Food.
• Chinese Exclusion Act (1882): Legislation that significantly impacted Chinese immigration and business opportunities in the US.
• Regional Chinese Cuisines: Increasing popularity of authentic dishes like Peking Duck, Sichuan Hot Pot, and others beyond Americanized options.
• Wanton Food, Inc.: The largest fortune cookie producer in the US, evolving from a noodle business.
• Historical Discrimination: The impact of prejudice and anti-Chinese sentiment on the development of Chinese restaurants and cuisine in America.
• Cultural Adaptation: The process by which Chinese cuisine evolved to appeal to American tastes and overcome societal barriers.

The Evolution of Chinese Cuisine in America

This documentary traces the fascinating history of Chinese cuisine in the United States, from its humble beginnings in mining towns to its current status as America’s most popular ethnic food. It highlights the cultural adaptation, entrepreneurial spirit, and resilience of Chinese Americans in building a thriving culinary landscape.

Early Immigration and the Rise of Chop Suey (1800s - 1960s)

The story begins in Butte, Montana, a city nicknamed “the richest hill on Earth” due to its copper wealth. Chinese immigrants arrived in the late 1800s to work in the mines, but faced severe discrimination, culminating in the Chinese Exclusion Act of 1882. This act hindered their ability to secure legitimate employment, leading many to establish their own businesses, including restaurants.

Jerry Tam’s family opened Peacin Noodle Parlor in 1911, which, remarkably, operated alongside an illegal gambling ring and opium den, utilizing underground tunnels for discreet operations. The gambling tables even featured shotguns mounted underneath to deter theft, and the opium held a street value of $50,000-$200,000.

During this period, “Chop Suey” emerged as a defining dish. Originating from the Cantonese phrase zapsu meaning “miscellaneous leftovers,” it was a resourceful creation utilizing available ingredients – leftover food tidbits combined with a gravy and served over noodles. It became “the first national cuisine for mass consumption for the nation,” and a precursor to American fast food. Despite boycotts against Chinese restaurants, Chop Suey’s palatable flavors won over American customers.

Post-War Growth and Americanization (1965 - 1972)

The Immigration and Nationality Act of 1965, which ended race-based immigration quotas and repealed the Chinese Exclusion Act, marked a turning point. Simultaneously, American palates began to open to more diverse flavors. However, the dominant trend remained the adaptation of Chinese dishes to American tastes.

Dishes like General Tso’s Chicken were intentionally created with stronger, sweeter, and sourer flavors to appeal to American preferences. This period saw a surge in the popularity of Americanized Chinese food, setting the stage for its widespread adoption.

The Nixon Visit and a Shift Towards Authenticity (1972 - 2010)

President Richard Nixon’s historic visit to Beijing in 1972 proved pivotal. Americans watching Nixon enjoy traditional dishes like Peking Duck on television sparked increased interest in authentic Chinese cuisine. Sales at Chinese restaurants spiked, with an estimated one new restaurant opening weekly in New York City.

Norman Wong’s father, Ching Sun Wong, founded Wanton Food, Inc. in 1973 to meet the growing demand for ingredients like noodles. Wong’s uncle advised him to focus on noodle-making, ensuring a stable livelihood. Wanton Food later became the largest fortune cookie producer in the US, a product ironically not consumed in China. The company’s success is attributed to its ability to mass-produce fortune cookies efficiently, utilizing specialized machines designed to maintain the cookie’s crispness and prevent breakage. They introduced air-cushioned packaging in 1988 to preserve freshness.

The Fortune Cookie Phenomenon

The origin of fortune cookies remains shrouded in mystery, with both Chinese and Japanese families claiming invention. However, it’s widely believed they originated on the West Coast of the US, created by Chinese Americans. In 1950, approximately 250 million fortune cookies were produced annually. By the 1980s, they were ubiquitous with takeout orders from chains like McChu Walk and Panda Express.

Wanton Food began adding lucky numbers to fortunes in 1995, initially drawn from a golden bowl. These numbers led to significant lottery winnings in 2005, generating widespread media attention.

The Rise of Regional Chinese Cuisine and Challenges (2010 - Present)

By 2010, the Chinese population in the US had grown significantly. Major Chinese restaurant chains like Happy Lamb Hot Pot and Haidilao began expanding into the US market. Restaurants like Tangida, a 162-year-old Beijing chain specializing in Peking Duck, opened locations in New York City, earning a Michelin star within two years.

Tangida’s Peking Duck preparation is a meticulous process taking days, costing $128 per duck. Chef Howie Wong emphasizes the importance of precise skin thickness and careful drying to achieve the perfect crispy texture. Tangida intentionally avoids marinating the duck, allowing the flavor to come solely from the dipping sauce.

Despite the growing popularity of authentic cuisine, challenges remain. Americans still harbor misconceptions about Chinese food, and ingredients like MSG continue to face unwarranted negative perceptions. Furthermore, anti-Chinese sentiment, exacerbated by political tensions and the COVID-19 pandemic, resulted in a $7.4 billion revenue loss for Asian restaurants in 2020.

Conclusion

The history of Chinese cuisine in America is a story of adaptation, innovation, and perseverance. From the early days of Chop Suey to the current wave of authentic regional dishes, Chinese American entrepreneurs have consistently responded to American tastes while preserving their culinary heritage. While challenges persist, the increasing demand for high-quality Chinese food suggests a promising future for this vibrant and influential cuisine. As Yan Jang of Tangida states, “People are slowly understanding that this is high quality food, good food, tasteful food.” The story of Chinese food in America is a testament to the power of culinary exchange and the enduring appeal of diverse flavors.