They Climb in Skirts… I Tried to Keep Up | Superskilled with Eva zu Beck | National Geographic

The Climbing Cholitas: A Superskilled Journey in Bolivia

Key Concepts:

• Cholitas: Indigenous Aymara women of Bolivia, historically marginalized but now reclaiming their identity and power.
• Polleras: Traditional pleated skirts worn by Cholitas, now a symbol of cultural pride and resistance.
• Cholitas Luchadoras (Fighting Cholitas): A group using wrestling as a form of social and political resistance.
• Cholitas Escaladoras (Climbing Cholitas): A group challenging societal norms by mountaineering in traditional dress.
• Altitude Sickness: A physiological condition resulting from reduced oxygen levels at high altitudes.
• Exposure Therapy: A technique used to overcome fears by gradually confronting them in a safe environment.
• Pachamama: The Earth Mother deity in Andean cultures.

I. Historical Context & The Rise of the Cholitas

The video begins by introducing the Climbing Cholitas, a group of Bolivian women defying expectations by mountaineering in their traditional polleras. This act is rooted in a history of discrimination. The terms "Chola" and "Cholita" were historically derogatory, used to denigrate poor, Indigenous women in Bolivia, relegating them to second-class citizenship. Recent grassroots movements have empowered these women to reclaim these terms and their identities. The Cholitas Luchadoras, founded in the early 2000s, exemplify this resistance through wrestling, showcasing strength and challenging stereotypes. As one Cholita Luchadora stated, their wrestling is about displaying “the strength and power they had reclaimed.” This ethos directly links to the Climbing Cholitas, both groups utilizing bold public displays to fight for a better future for Indigenous women.

II. Immersion with the Cholitas: Wrestling & Cultural Pride

Eva zu Beck begins her journey in La Paz, Bolivia (elevation 12,000 feet, population 750,000+), and quickly immerses herself in Cholita culture. She participates in a training session with the Cholitas Luchadoras, finding the techniques surprisingly difficult. The wrestling performances are described as thrilling, incorporating drama, stunts, and acrobatics. The video highlights the performative aspect of their resistance, noting that what appears rehearsed stems from a genuine struggle for equality.

A key element of Cholita identity is the pollera. Elena, a Cholita Escaladora, proudly displays her collection, explaining the intricate layers (five petticoats) that create the skirt’s volume. She demonstrates that putting on a pollera takes approximately two minutes. Eva attempts to wear a pollera, finding it heavy but deeply inspiring due to its cultural significance.

III. The Cordillera Real Trek & Glacial Challenges

Eva joins Julia, Elena, Pacesa, and Danisca, the Cholitas Escaladoras, for a multi-day trek in the Cordillera Real, a mountain range with peaks exceeding 21,000 feet. The journey is physically demanding due to the extreme altitude, where oxygen levels are nearly half that of sea level, increasing susceptibility to altitude sickness.

The team reaches Condoriri Base Camp, and their first major challenge is crossing the Condoriri glacier. They equip themselves with standard climbing gear – ice axes, crampons, harnesses, and helmets – while maintaining their traditional polleras. Elena points out the impact of climate change on the glacier, noting it has receded approximately a mile in the last 30 years.

The initial training involves practicing ice-walking skills and ascending a 15-foot ice wall. Eva struggles with the technique, recalling a previous ice climbing experience from a decade prior. Julia’s speed and efficiency are contrasted with Eva’s difficulties.

IV. High-Altitude Training & Physical Demands

The following day, the team hikes to the Ventanani glacier at 16,600 feet. The ascent is arduous, requiring a slow and steady pace due to the thin air. They begin training on practice ice walls, with Julia demonstrating her skill by free-soloing a 5-meter wall, securing it with ice screws.

Eva attempts the practice walls, finding them more challenging than expected. She notes the ice is melting and crumbling, making it difficult to secure her axes and crampons. The physical strain is significant, and she experiences fatigue and fear. She reflects on the concept of exposure therapy, acknowledging the challenge as a confrontation with her fear of heights.

V. The 50-Foot Challenge & Overcoming Obstacles

The culmination of the training is a 50-foot ice wall with an overhanging section. Julia and Pacesa attempt the climb first, but both struggle with the overhang. Elena also fails to reach the top. Eva, feeling discouraged, prepares for her attempt.

The climb is intensely difficult. Eva struggles to find secure holds, and the ice continues to crumble. She reaches a particularly challenging section where the others had faltered. She describes feeling exhausted and questioning her ability to continue. Drawing inspiration from the Cholitas’ resilience and a surge of anger, she pushes through the overhang and reaches the summit. She describes the experience as terrifying but ultimately empowering.

VI. Cultural Significance & Conclusion

After the climb, the team performs a traditional offering to Pachamama, expressing gratitude for their safe passage. Eva reflects on the Cholitas’ strength, resilience, and their ability to transform symbols of oppression (the pollera) into symbols of pride and resistance.

The video concludes by emphasizing the common thread of resilience among the individuals Eva has met throughout her Superskilled journey. She highlights their fight for a better life, their cultural preservation, and their pursuit of a more just society. The overarching message is that these individuals inspire us to live healthier, happier, and more adventurous lives.

Data & Statistics:

• La Paz Population: 750,000+
• La Paz Elevation: 12,000 feet
• Cordillera Real Peak Height: Over 21,000 feet
• Mount Whitney (Highest US Peak): 14,500 feet
• Glacier Recession: The Condoriri glacier has receded approximately one mile in the last 30 years.
• Altitude Oxygen Levels: Oxygen levels at 16,600 feet are nearly half that of sea level.

Notable Quotes:

• Benita (Cholita Luchadora): (Regarding the wrestling) “…display the strength and power they had reclaimed.”
• Eva zu Beck: “Climbing and wrestling are just ways to express those things externally.”
• Eva zu Beck: “There's so much out there to inspire us to live healthier, happier, wilder lives.”