The Vegetables 99% of American Farms Refuse to Grow

Choy Division: Culturally Relevant Farming for the Asian American Diaspora

Key Concepts:

• Culturally Relevant Produce: Growing vegetables specifically important to Asian cuisines, often unavailable or of lower quality in mainstream markets.
• Black Dirt/Muck Soil: Highly fertile soil with high organic matter content, ideal for vegetable farming.
• CSA (Community Supported Agriculture): A direct-to-consumer model where members receive regular shares of the farm’s harvest.
• Seed Saving: The practice of collecting and preserving seeds from successful plants for future growing seasons.
• Mutual Aid: Collaborative efforts to provide resources and support to communities, particularly those facing systemic barriers.
• Food Security: Having reliable access to a sufficient quantity of affordable, nutritious food.

I. The Need for Culturally Specific Farming

New York City boasts a large Asian population, yet lacks sufficient local farms supplying the vegetables central to Asian diets. Christina Chan, founder of Choy Division, identified this gap after experiencing frustration at farmers' markets lacking essential ingredients. This lack of access extends beyond availability; conventionally grown produce shipped from distant locations often lacks the flavor and quality desired for authentic Asian cuisine. Currently, only 1% of the 3.4 million farmers in the US are Asian, highlighting the underrepresentation in the agricultural sector. Chan transitioned from being a “passive consumer” to an active participant in the city’s food system, driven by a desire to provide culturally relevant produce.

II. Choy Division: Mission and Operations

Choy Division, located in Chester, New York, aims to address this need by providing locally grown, culturally relevant produce to the Asian American diaspora in New York City. The farm cultivates approximately 40-50 different crop varieties annually. A key distinction is the focus on flavor and environmental practices, challenging the prioritization of storage and transport in conventional agriculture. The farm operates a CSA program with four drop sites serving around 300 members, and also partners with mutual aid organizations to distribute produce at no cost to those in need.

III. Harvesting and Crop Selection: Prioritizing Flavor and Quality

The video showcases the harvesting of sprouting cauliflower and Napa cabbage. Harvesting Napa cabbage requires assessing firmness – a slight give indicates it needs more time, while a firm head is ready. Cooler temperatures in the fall encourage sugar production in cabbage, resulting in a sweeter flavor. Chan emphasizes that crop selection is driven by flavor profiles and intended use (fermentation, pickling, fresh cooking). She contrasts this with conventional farming, where traits like storage longevity are prioritized, often at the expense of taste. The farm currently harvests a diverse range of crops including choy sum, gai lan (Chinese sprouting broccoli), baby bok choy, daikon radishes, Taiwanese eggplant, and shishito peppers.

IV. The Significance of Black Dirt Soil

Choy Division benefits from farming in “black dirt” or “muck soil,” a unique soil type characterized by exceptionally high organic matter content (40-50% compared to the typical 3-6%). This rich soil provides abundant nutrients, reducing the need for compost or amendments. The high organic matter content also improves water retention, minimizing the need for irrigation. Chan explains that organic matter consists of decomposed plant material, providing essential building blocks for plant growth.

V. Seed Saving and Food Sovereignty

Sourcing seeds for East Asian vegetables presents a challenge due to limited variety availability compared to more common crops. Chan recognizes this as a systemic issue and actively engages in seed saving. Seed saving offers several benefits: adaptability to the local bioregion, independence from seed companies, and the ability to select for optimal flavor. She states, “To truly be food secure, you need to start with seeds. Without seeds, there are no vegetables.”

VI. Food, Identity, and Community

Chan articulates the profound connection between food and identity for Asian Americans. She recalls food being a common ground within her family, a source of shared joy and connection. Growing Asian vegetables allows her to reconnect with her heritage and provide a sense of belonging to her community. She notes the historical shame associated with bringing culturally specific lunches to school and the subsequent reclamation of pride in Asian cuisine. The farm aims to provide not just sustenance, but also a sense of cultural affirmation and spiritual nourishment. She quotes the common Chinese greeting, “Have you eaten yet?” as a demonstration of care and love, framing her work as an extension of that sentiment.

VII. Mutual Aid and Holistic Support

Choy Division’s partnership with mutual aid organizations extends beyond simply providing food. The farm recognizes the importance of providing culturally relevant foods that evoke a sense of home and belonging, addressing not only physical hunger but also emotional and spiritual needs. Chan emphasizes that mutual aid should recognize the full humanity of recipients, offering nourishment on multiple levels.

VIII. Farm Culture and Crew Collaboration

Choy Division fosters an inclusive farm culture where crew members are encouraged to bring their whole selves to work. This collaborative environment enhances farming practices, strengthens community connections, and provides a spiritually nourishing experience. Chan highlights the healing power of working with the land, particularly within a culturally resonant context.

Conclusion:

Choy Division exemplifies a growing movement towards localized, culturally relevant agriculture. By prioritizing flavor, sustainable practices, and community connection, the farm addresses a critical need within the Asian American diaspora while challenging conventional agricultural norms. The farm’s commitment to seed saving and mutual aid further underscores its dedication to food sovereignty and holistic community support. Ultimately, Choy Division’s work is rooted in a simple yet powerful question: “Have you eaten yet?” – a gesture of care, belonging, and cultural affirmation.