The Varied Treasures of Nara and Mie - Train Cruise

Nara & Mie: A Journey Through Japan’s Heartlands

Key Concepts:

• Shugendo: A syncretic Japanese religion blending mountain worship, Buddhism, Shintoism, and Taoism.
• Ama: Traditional Japanese female divers specializing in shell and seaweed collection.
• Escargo Cultivation: The unique practice of breeding Burgundy snails in Japan, pioneered by Takashi.
• Ise Grand Shrine (Ise Jingu): One of the most sacred Shinto shrines in Japan, rebuilt every 20 years.
• Kintetsu Railway: A private railway company operating in the Kansai region of Japan, used for scenic travel.
• Syncratic Faith: The blending of different beliefs and practices.

I. Yoshino: Sacred Mountains and Ancient Origins

The journey begins in Yoshino, Nara Prefecture, a region less crowded than Osaka and Kyoto, offering a more immersive experience. Kimusenji Temple, a 1,400-year-old head temple of Shugendo, stands as a symbol of Mount Yoshino. The temple’s 34-meter main hall is constructed around an immense, ancient tree, its intricate details and history evoking a sense of reverence. Practitioners of Shugendo believe mountains are sacred dwellings of deities and engage in rigorous ascetic training there.

The temple’s founding story centers on En No, a man who sought world peace and, after 1,000 days of prayer, received a vision of the deity Zhao Gongen. Ozunu carved an image of Zhao Gongen from a cherry tree, establishing Kimusenji and initiating a tradition of cherry tree planting on Mount Yoshino, making it renowned for its cherry blossoms. As stated during the visit, “This scenery was wrought by the Japanese reverence for both divine beings and nature.” The inner sanctum experience, described as “a really fantastic immersive experience,” involved viewing statues behind closed doors, enhanced by the scent of hinoki cypress.

II. Asuka: Echoes of Japan’s First Capital

Traveling by scenic train, the journey continues to Asuka, Nara Prefecture, which served as Japan’s capital for roughly 120 years (6th-8th centuries). The area is characterized by enigmatic monolithic structures, including a tumulus – the resting place of a 7th-century empress – and mysterious rock formations. These formations, some resembling tortoises or frogs, have unknown purposes, sparking theories ranging from sake brewing to astronomical observation and esoteric rituals. One particularly striking stone formation is described as resembling a crop circle, with cutouts potentially designed to collect water. The presenter notes the ambiguity, stating, “Maybe they are mysterious messages from the past.”

III. Mie Prefecture: Pioneering Escargo and Coastal Traditions

The journey then moves to Mie Prefecture, where Takashi, a local farmer, has achieved a world first: successfully cultivating Burgundy snails (escargo). After seven years of negotiations with the government for import permission, and through extensive trial and error, he now raises 200,000 snails annually. The escargo are served grilled in a buttery parsley and shallot sauce, described as having a “pony pony” texture – incredibly soft and easy to chew. The presenter highlights the dish’s popularity, noting that “a lot of people have come here just to eat this.”

IV. Ise Jingu: A Shrine Reborn Every Generation

Ise Jingu, a grand shrine with a history spanning over 2,000 years, is a central point of the Japanese Shinto faith. The Geku enshrines deities of food, clothing, and shelter, receiving daily offerings of rice, salt, sake, and seasonal vegetables prepared by purified priests. Mie Prefecture’s historical bounty of mountains and seas made it highly valued by the imperial court. A unique tradition at Ise Jingu is its ritual reconstruction every 20 years, preserving traditional construction techniques. A local shop sells cookies made with ingredients used in the deity’s meals – rice, salt, and sake – reflecting the reverence the people of Ise have for their deities.

V. Coastal Exploration and the Ama Divers

The journey continues along the coast to Toba, Mie Prefecture, home to the Ama, traditional female shell divers. Though their numbers are declining, 68 Ama still practice their ancient techniques in Osatsu village. This tradition, potentially dating back 5,000 years, involves collecting abalone, turban shells, spiny lobsters, and seaweed. Ama dives average 50 seconds, with women favored due to their higher percentage of subcutaneous fat providing cold resistance. They wear protective symbols during dives – the hashlike nman for protection against evil spirits and the star-shaped seiman for safe return. Akata Ayami, a mother of five, exemplifies the Ama spirit, inspired to join the tradition after witnessing their “vigorous joyful sight.”

VI. Kashikojima & The G7 Summit Hotel: Culinary Innovation & Scenic Beauty

The final leg of the journey takes place on Kashikojima Island, accessible by train crossing the 10-me strait. The hotel, built in 1951 and hosting the G7 Ise-Shima Summit in 2016, served as a venue for working dinners. Head Chef Higuchiroy, a native of Mie Prefecture, used the summit as a catalyst to reconnect with local producers and showcase Mie’s culinary culture. She now offers a lunch featuring new creations made with seasonal ingredients. The presenter savors a signature dish of pan-fried abalone, spiny lobster, and risotto, praising its “fantastic combination” and “buttery taste.”

Data & Statistics:

• Kimusenji Temple: Founded 1,400 years ago.
• Asuka Period: Capital of Japan for approximately 120 years (6th-8th centuries).
• Takashi’s Escargo Farm: Raises 200,000 Burgundy snails annually.
• Ise Jingu: Reconstructed every 20 years for over 1,300 years.
• Ama Divers in Osatsu: Currently 68 practicing divers.
• Ama Dive Duration: Average of 50 seconds.

Conclusion:

This journey through Nara and Mie Prefectures reveals a Japan beyond the bustling cities, showcasing a deep connection to nature, ancient traditions, and culinary innovation. From the sacred mountains of Yoshino to the coastal traditions of the Ama divers, the trip highlights the dedication of individuals preserving their heritage for future generations. The presenter concludes, “It’s inspired me and I hope that it’s inspired you as well,” emphasizing the transformative power of slow travel and cultural immersion. The journey underscores the enduring beauty and cultural richness of Japan, continually revealing “new sides” to those who explore it.