The Ontake Kodo Path to Sacred Peak - Journeys in Japan

Key Concepts

• Sacred Mountains: In Japan, mountains are traditionally viewed as dwelling places of gods.
• Pilgrimage Routes: Ancient paths leading to sacred mountains, often used by worshippers.
• Kurozawa Village: A village at the base of Mount Fuji, historically connected to pilgrimage routes.
• Koji (Fermented Rice Malt): A key ingredient in Japanese fermentation, used to make amazake.
• Amazake: A traditional Japanese sweet drink made from fermented rice, naturally sweetened by koji.
• Ikenotaira: A location on the pilgrimage route, historically a school route for children.
• Aido Pass: A pass on the pilgrimage route offering the first view of Mount Fuji.
• Reijinhi (Spirit Tablets): Memorial stones for those who worshipped Mount Fuji, not graves.
• Oharai (Purification Ritual): A Shinto ritual to cleanse oneself before entering a sacred area.
• Hinoki Cypress: Ancient trees found on the mountain, known for their slow growth due to the cold climate.
• Chikatamochi: A local specialty rice cake sprinkled with kinako (roasted soybean flour).
• Eighth Station: A significant point on Mount Fuji, considered the boundary between the human and divine realms.
• Suzu (Bell): Worn by pilgrims to ward off evil spirits and signal their presence to the gods.
• Ninth Station (Ishiwari-Sō): A resting point before the final ascent.
• Second Pond (Ni-no-ike): A volcanic crater lake at approximately 2900 meters, formerly an emerald green lake.
• Volcanic Rocks: Evidence of past eruptions, such as those from 2014.
• Shelters: Structures built for refuge in case of volcanic eruptions.
• Summit: The highest point of Mount Fuji, a place for prayer and reflection.

Pilgrimage to Mount Fuji: A Spiritual Journey

This video chronicles a pilgrimage up Mount Fuji, highlighting its deep spiritual and religious significance in Japanese culture. The presenter, Peter Scove, embarks on a journey following an ancient pilgrimage route, emphasizing that in Japan, mountains are traditionally considered the dwelling places of gods.

The Starting Point: Kurozawa and the Sacred Boundary

The journey begins in Kurozawa village, where the presenter crosses a river. This river is described as a symbolic boundary: the side of the presenter represents the "present world" (現世), while crossing to the other side signifies entering the "sacred realm" (聖域), the domain of the gods. This point served as the departure location for many ancient pilgrims heading towards Mount Fuji.

A brief stop is made at a facility that produces koji (fermented rice malt), a special ingredient that attracts international researchers. Here, Peter is offered amazake, a traditional sweet drink made from koji and rice. He notes its natural sweetness, derived solely from the koji, with no added sugar.

The Ancient Path: From Living Road to Sacred Trail

The group then proceeds along the "Higashiyama-dō" (East Mountain Road). This path, once a common "living road" used by villagers, is now largely deserted. It's revealed that in the past, schoolchildren from the Ikenotaira district would walk this mountain path to attend school. The Aido Pass is reached, offering the first clear view of Mount Fuji.

At Aido Pass, the presenter observes numerous standing stones. These are explained not as graves, but as reijinhi (spirit tablets) dedicated to those who worshipped Mount Fuji. The ashes of these individuals are not interred here.

Purification and the Ascent Begins

Before continuing, Peter participates in an oharai (purification ritual) at a designated purification area. This ritual is performed to cleanse oneself and prepare for entering the sacred domain of the mountain. The ritual involves symbolic movements and pronouncements, emphasizing the desire to be protected and guided.

The ascent officially begins, with the first station marked by a shrine where prayers for safety are offered. The majestic presence of Mount Fuji becomes more prominent as they climb.

Encounters and Observations on the Mountain

As they ascend, Peter notices ancient hinoki cypress trees, some estimated to be 200-300 years old. Their slow growth, only 1-2 mm per year, is attributed to the harsh, cold climate.

Reaching the seventh station, Peter is treated to chikatamochi, a local specialty rice cake. He learns that the guide, Yamashita-san, worked at this station during his university days, making the taste particularly nostalgic. This station is described as marking the beginning of the summer climbing season.

The Boundary of Worlds: The Eighth Station

The eighth station is identified as a significant point, marking the boundary between the human world and the divine realm. Below this point is the "Motonosekai" (original world) where people live, and above it is the "Seiki" (sacred realm). The bells worn by pilgrims, with their distinctive ringing, are explained as a means to ward off evil spirits and to signal their arrival to the gods. The sudden appearance of clouds at this altitude reinforces the transition into a different domain.

Approaching the Summit: Challenges and Wonders

The ninth station, Ishiwari-Sō, is reached. The weather is described as "just in time," with the rain holding off, interpreted as a sign of divine protection.

The journey continues towards the summit. At approximately 2900 meters, they reach Ni-no-ike (Second Pond), a volcanic crater. It's noted that this area, which now appears somewhat desert-like, was an emerald green lake just 10 years prior. Enhanced monitoring systems have been implemented for safety, and the mountain is sometimes closed due to volcanic activity.

The presence of grey volcanic rocks, remnants of the 2014 eruption, is pointed out. Shelters are visible, designed as places of refuge in case of an eruption.

The Summit: A Spiritual Culmination

The final ascent involves climbing a set of stairs to the summit. Upon arrival, Peter expresses his gratitude for the clear weather, allowing for a 360-degree panoramic view. The journey culminates with a final prayer at the summit shrine.

Conclusion: A Profound Spiritual Experience

The pilgrimage is described as an enlightening experience, offering a deep appreciation for the spiritual and religious significance of Mount Fuji. The journey was not merely recreational but a fervent religious undertaking. Participating in the purification rituals and ascending through the different stations allowed for a profound understanding of the feeling of wanting one's spirit to reside in such a sacred place. The experience highlights the transformation of mountain climbing in Japan from a pastime to a deeply spiritual journey.