The fate of bull calves - From surplus to Alpine savior | DW Documentary

Key Concepts

• Dairy Industry Byproduct: The issue of male calves being considered a waste product of the dairy industry due to their lack of milk production capability.
• Dual-Purpose Breeds: Cattle breeds bred for both milk and meat production, offering a more sustainable alternative to specialized dairy breeds.
• Pasture-Raised Beef: A farming approach focusing on raising cattle primarily on grasslands, promoting animal welfare, soil health, and potentially reducing environmental impact.
• Zero-Sum Game: The economic reality where selling male calves barely covers the cost of their early care (milk consumption).
• Animal Welfare Concerns: The ethical and practical issues surrounding the transport and fate of male calves, particularly regarding EU standards and export outside of Europe.
• Sustainability in Agriculture: Exploring methods to create a more environmentally and economically viable dairy and beef industry.
• Local Food Systems: The benefits of regional supply chains and direct relationships between farmers, butchers, and consumers.
• Forage-Based Systems: Utilizing grass and hay as the primary feed source for cattle, reducing reliance on concentrated feeds like corn and soy.

The Fate of the Male Dairy Calf: A System Under Scrutiny

The documentary explores the complex and often troubling fate of male calves born into the dairy industry, highlighting the economic and ethical challenges surrounding their existence as a byproduct of milk production. The film centers around several farms in Germany and Austria, showcasing both the conventional practices and emerging sustainable alternatives.

The Conventional System: A Zero-Sum Game

The Ren family’s organic dairy farm in Vangen, Germany, serves as a primary example of the standard practice. With 200 cows producing approximately 1.5 million liters of milk annually, the farm utilizes automatic milking machines that track data on milk yield, health, and reproductive cycles. However, male calves are considered unwanted. Marcel Ren explains the difficult reality: “It’s always a major process that you have to get used to. We’re sorry, but we can’t keep them.”

The sale of these calves is often a “zero-sum game,” barely covering the cost of the milk they consumed as newborns. A transaction between Marcel Ren and his brother Roman illustrates this, with bulls selling for between €200-€450 depending on size and weight. Roman acknowledges the uncertainty of the calves’ future, stating, “If I sell you a cow, you can’t guarantee that you’ll keep it for 5 years… it’s possible that he’ll sell it from northern Germany to Holland or somewhere else.” The calves are typically purchased by specialized fattening farms, and their ultimate destination is often unknown, potentially even outside the EU where animal welfare standards are lower. Data reveals that hundreds of thousands of male calves are traded between EU member states annually.

The Ethical and Welfare Concerns

Hannes Herner, a butcher specializing in high-end beef, emphasizes the ethical concerns surrounding the transport and fate of these calves. He notes the documented violations of animal welfare standards and the intentional nature of the system. He states, “It’s very difficult for me to watch and incredibly difficult to accept that this is how it’s done because that’s just the way things are.” Herner actively seeks to change this by sourcing from farms with higher welfare standards.

Towards Sustainable Alternatives: Dual-Purpose Breeds and Pasture-Raising

The documentary highlights several initiatives aimed at creating a more sustainable and ethical system. A key focus is the revival of dual-purpose breeds – cattle that are suitable for both milk and meat production. These breeds, like the Flecky cows at the Iikner Hoof farm, produce less milk but yield higher quality meat. Gotfred Halbrooker, the farmer, prioritizes the well-being of these “problem calves,” fattening them himself rather than sending them on long journeys. He emphasizes a flexible approach, stating, “It’s very important to me that we’re tolerant and don’t have a fixed time frame. It’s the result that counts.”

Another crucial element is pasture-raising. Tom Sanon in South Tyrol, Italy, raises steer (castrated male calves) as oxen, focusing on local production and ethical practices. He emphasizes the importance of small farms in maintaining biodiversity and the cultural landscape. Zan, a researcher and farmer, highlights the ecological benefits of pasture-based systems, noting that grasslands can store more CO2 than arable land. He explains that ruminants are essential for utilizing grassland, which comprises 40% of the world’s terrestrial land.

Scientific Research and Breed Adaptation

Researchers at the University of Bolzano, led by Matias Gali, are investigating the sustainability of different cattle breeds. They are conducting ultrasound measurements at the Tonerho farm to assess the fat reserves of cows and determine which breeds are best suited for specific environments. Gali argues that a holistic approach is necessary, considering animal welfare, health, grazing, and pasture quality. He challenges the assumption that vegan milk alternatives are inherently more sustainable, pointing to issues like high water consumption and pesticide use in soy and almond production. He states, “You really have to look at the big picture. It's not enough to focus on just one aspect. The overall calculation is essential.”

Regional Initiatives and Consumer Demand

The documentary showcases the emergence of regional initiatives aimed at promoting sustainable beef production. The Lake Constance group, founded by Marcel Ren, aims to provide pasture-raised beef from locally sourced calves, avoiding concentrated feeds. This initiative relies on collaboration between farmers, butchers, and retailers. Ren emphasizes the importance of consumer education, stating, “If the guest or consumer says, ‘I can’t afford that,’ they don’t need to have meat every day… We need more consumer education.”

A Shift in Perspective: From Waste Product to Valuable Resource

The film concludes with a hopeful outlook, suggesting that male calves can be transformed from a waste product into a valuable resource. Hans Petra, inspired by the Rens’ project, plans to transition to a forage-based system, raising steer calves on pasture. The Rens farm is now providing calves to Meer Hurfin in the Algoy region, where they will be raised under sustainable conditions.

Conclusion

The documentary presents a critical examination of the dairy industry’s treatment of male calves, exposing the ethical and environmental shortcomings of the conventional system. It simultaneously highlights the potential of sustainable alternatives – dual-purpose breeds, pasture-raising, regional initiatives, and scientific research – to create a more ethical and environmentally responsible future for dairy and beef production. The film underscores the importance of consumer awareness and demand in driving this change, suggesting that a shift in values and purchasing habits can ultimately transform the fate of these often-overlooked animals.