Saint Catherine's Day: a medieval tradition turned haute couture ritual • FRANCE 24 English

Key Concepts

• St. Catherine's Day (November 25th): Patron saint of unmarried women and seamstresses. Historically marked by festivities and parades for young unmarried women, often wearing fanciful hats.
• "Que staline" / "Capping St. Catherine": A tradition where unmarried women aged 25 placed a hat on the statue of St. Catherine, signifying the transition from marriageable girl to "old maid."
• St. Nicholas' Day (December 6th): Celebrated by unmarried male employees with a parallel tradition.
• "Katrinets": Unwed female employees of French fashion houses, particularly those aged 25, who participated in St. Catherine's Day traditions.
• "Nicola": Unwed male employees who celebrated on St. Nicholas' Day.
• French Couture: The high-fashion industry in France, where these traditions have been preserved.
• Federation of Couture and Fashion: The governing body that has updated the traditions in recent years.

Historical Origins and Evolution of St. Catherine's Day Traditions

The tradition of Dior and Chanel employees celebrating on November 25th, often wearing distinctive hats, stems from the historical significance of St. Catherine's Day. This day is dedicated to St. Catherine, who is recognized as the patron saint of unmarried women.

• Medieval Roots: Originating in the Middle Ages, November 25th became a day for festivities and parades in France, with young, unmarried women as the central figures.
• Signaling Celibacy: A key element of these celebrations was the wearing of fanciful hats. These hats served as a visual signal to potential suitors, indicating the wearer's unmarried status.
• "Que staline" or "Capping St. Catherine": For unmarried women who reached the age of 25, a significant milestone, a specific ritual was observed. They would gather for mass near a statue of St. Catherine and place a hat upon the saint's head. This act, known as "que staline" or "capping St. Catherine," symbolized their transition from being a "marriageable girl" to an "old maid."

Connection to French Couture

The tradition's relevance to French couture is rooted in another aspect of St. Catherine's patronage: she is also the patron saint of seamstresses and dressmakers.

• 19th Century Shift: Since the 19th century, this connection has been particularly revered within the French fashion industry.
• Fashion House Custom: It became customary for Parisian fashion houses to acknowledge their "katrinets" – unwed female employees who had reached the age of 25.
• Opportunity and Celebration: These "katrinets" were granted a rare opportunity to meet their bosses, followed by the rest of the day off to participate in the traditional festivities.
• Hats as Representation: Adhering to tradition, the "katrinets" would adorn their heads with fanciful hats. These hats were often designed to represent either their specific trade within the fashion house or the couture house itself.

Parallel Tradition for Male Employees

A parallel tradition was adopted by unwed male employees on December 6th, the day of St. Nicholas.

• "Nicola" Designation: These male employees were referred to as "Nicola."
• Delayed Milestone: Unlike their female counterparts, the "crowning" or recognition for "Nicola" did not occur until their 30th birthday.

Modern Celebrations in French Fashion Houses

Many prominent French fashion houses continue to observe the tradition of celebrating on November 25th.

• Current Participants: Notable houses that still celebrate include Chanel, Dior, Hermes, and Louis Vuitton.
• Special Celebrations: Employees who are 25 years old are invited to attend special celebrations, often held at Paris City Hall.
• Parade of Hats: As in historical times, these celebrations involve a parade where the 25-year-old employees showcase their fancy hats.

Recent Updates to the Tradition

In 2023, the Federation of Couture and Fashion implemented significant updates to the tradition:

• Removal of Unwed Requirement: The requirement for attendees to be unwed was lifted.
• Age Harmonization for "Nicola": The age for "Nicola" was lowered to 25, aligning it with the age for female participants, thus ensuring both men and women celebrate at the same age.

Synthesis/Conclusion

The tradition of wearing hats on November 25th by employees of French fashion houses like Dior and Chanel is a rich historical practice with roots in the veneration of St. Catherine, the patron saint of unmarried women and seamstresses. Initially a medieval custom for young women to signal their marital status and later a rite of passage for those turning 25, it evolved within the couture industry to become a celebration of female employees, with hats representing their trades or houses. A parallel tradition existed for male employees on St. Nicholas' Day, with recognition at age 30. Modern celebrations continue in major fashion houses, with recent updates by the Federation of Couture and Fashion removing the unwed requirement and standardizing the age of celebration to 25 for both men and women, ensuring the tradition's continued relevance and inclusivity.