Queer subculture, slums and a spiritual star cult - India’s creative capital Mumbai | DW Documentary

Key Concepts

• Mumbai (Bombay): India’s economic and cultural powerhouse, a melting pot of cultures, and a city of contradictions.
• Women Empowerment: The central theme highlighted through Amruta and her motorcycle group, challenging traditional gender roles.
• Faith & Religion: The pervasive influence of faith in daily life, exemplified by the Rad Ma following and temple rituals.
• Economic Disparity: The stark contrast between wealth and poverty, illustrated by the Bombay Jenana Club and the Dhobi Ghat laundry.
• Bollywood & Glamour: The significant role of the Indian film industry in shaping culture and aspirations.
• Migration & Opportunity: Mumbai as a magnet for migrants seeking a better life, and the challenges they face.
• Social Change & Modernization: The ongoing evolution of Indian society, particularly regarding gender roles and social norms.

Mumbai: A City of Contradictions and Aspirations

This documentary offers a multifaceted portrait of Mumbai, India, a megacity of approximately 22 million people, formerly known as Bombay. It explores the city’s vibrant culture, economic realities, and the evolving roles of women within Indian society. The narrative weaves through diverse experiences, from a group of female bikers challenging societal norms to the spiritual devotion surrounding a modern guru, and the daily struggles of those working in the city’s largest open-air laundry.

The Women Bikers & Challenging Tradition

The film introduces Amruta and her group of female motorcyclists, representing a departure from traditional Indian female roles. Amruta is presented as the group’s leader, actively encouraging independence and mobility for women. She founded “Women on Wheels,” a motorcycle driving school specifically for women, having identified a gap in the market for female instructors. She has trained over 5,000 women, including female police officers, and organizes motorcycle trips across India. Her motivation stems from a desire to empower women to achieve independence, both on the road and in their lives, stating, “She should not be dependent on anybody in that case.” This initiative directly addresses societal expectations that discourage women from pursuing traditionally “masculine” activities.

Faith, Spirituality & the Rise of Rad Ma

The documentary delves into the strong presence of faith in Mumbai, showcasing the importance of religious rituals and the reverence for deities. A significant segment focuses on Rad Ma, a former farmer’s daughter who has become a highly influential spiritual leader in Mumbai. She attracts a diverse following, including both the wealthy and the poor, who seek her blessings and guidance. Taliba, described as a “court marshal, master of ceremonies and social media manager,” manages Rad Ma’s public image and events. Followers express profound devotion, with one stating, “For me, she’s my god. I cannot imagine my life without Radhim Maji.” Rad Ma’s success is attributed to her marketing acumen and ability to connect with people’s spiritual needs. Her interviews reveal a somewhat enigmatic personality, prioritizing comfort and acknowledging mundane pleasures even as a deity. She attributes her connection with followers to meditation.

Economic Landscape: From Exclusive Clubs to the Dhobi Ghat

The film starkly contrasts the economic realities within Mumbai. The Bombay Jenana Club, one of India’s most exclusive clubs, embodies the wealth and privilege of the city’s elite. Founded by British colonial rulers, it maintains a high degree of exclusivity, with a reported admission fee of €100,000 (though currently closed to new members). The club’s president highlights the challenges of maintaining its exclusivity and the surprising impact of global warming on its sporting events.

In contrast, the Dhobi Ghat, the world’s largest outdoor laundry, showcases the lives of Mumbai’s working class. Approximately 7,000 laundry workers and their families live and work in this cooperative, processing over 100,000 items of laundry daily. Workers earn approximately €150 per month, a wage that, while low, is higher than the national average and provides opportunities for education for their children. The documentary emphasizes that Mumbai offers opportunities, even within limited roles, that are unavailable elsewhere in India. The water supply for Dhobi Ghat is provided by the city administration, highlighting the essential role these workers play in maintaining the city’s hygiene.

Bollywood, Fashion & Cultural Expression

The influence of Bollywood, the world’s largest film industry, is prominently featured. Daniel Ba, a German makeup artist, has become a leading figure in shaping the Indian ideal of beauty through his work with Bollywood stars. He founded a makeup academy, charging €6,000 for courses, demonstrating the demand for glamour and style. The film highlights the importance of fashion as a form of self-expression and rebellion, particularly through the example of Zean Ali (Zish), a Muslim drag queen and model who has graced the cover of Indian Vogue. Zish emphasizes the importance of Mumbai as a relatively tolerant space for queer expression, contrasting it with the more conservative attitudes prevalent in other parts of India. They note that while progress has been made (homosexuality decriminalized in 2018), the fight for marriage equality continues.

Migration, Resilience & the Spirit of Mumbai

The documentary underscores Mumbai’s role as a magnet for migrants from across India seeking economic opportunities. The story of Amruta’s family exemplifies this, with her parents arriving in Mumbai as impoverished migrants and working tirelessly to provide a better life for their children. Anil Patak, a taxi driver who migrated to Mumbai 30 years ago, describes the city as “the queen of the night” and praises its opportunities for earning a living. He also expresses his admiration for Bollywood stars. The film emphasizes the city’s resilience and the spirit of its inhabitants, who are willing to work hard and embrace challenges. A wedding scene illustrates the importance of social events and the significant financial investment families make in these celebrations (approximately €50,000-€60,000).

Conclusion

The documentary paints a complex and compelling portrait of Mumbai as a city of contrasts – wealth and poverty, tradition and modernity, faith and ambition. It showcases the city’s vibrant energy, its challenges, and the resilience of its people. Through the stories of Amruta and her biker group, Rad Ma and her followers, the workers of Dhobi Ghat, and the creatives of Bollywood, the film highlights Mumbai’s unique ability to offer hope and opportunity, even amidst hardship. The overarching message is that Mumbai is a city where dreams can be realized, but only through hard work, determination, and a willingness to embrace the city’s chaotic and unpredictable nature. It is a “mini India,” a microcosm of the country’s diverse cultures and aspirations.