Puddings and pies: American chef David Lebovitz on challenging French cuisine • FRANCE 24 English

Key Concepts

• Dessert Culture Divide: The perceived difference between Anglophone (heavy cakes, pies) and French (refined, petit) desserts.
• Globalized Pastry: The interconnectedness of pastry techniques and ingredients across cultures, with French concepts influencing others.
• Homestyle vs. Patisserie: The distinction between elaborate bakery creations and simpler, home-baked goods.
• Blogging and Food Writing: The role of early internet platforms in connecting chefs, sharing recipes, and promoting lesser-known culinary establishments.
• Recipe Evolution: The continuous refinement and adaptation of recipes based on personal experience, ingredient availability, and cultural influences.
• French Culinary Acceptance: The process of gaining trust and acceptance within the French culinary community as a foreigner.

Summary

This discussion explores the nuances of dessert culture, particularly the perceived differences between Anglophone and French traditions, through the lens of American pastry chef and author David Leovitz, who has lived in France for 15 years.

Dessert Culture: Anglophone vs. French

The conversation begins by highlighting a perceived fundamental difference between Anglophone desserts (UK, US) and French desserts. Anglophone desserts are characterized as often "heavy," encompassing items like cakes, pies, crumbles, and puddings. In contrast, French desserts are described as more "refined" and "petit." Leovitz acknowledges this distinction but also points out the global nature of the pastry world, noting that even seemingly American desserts like pie utilize "pâte," a French concept, indicating significant crossover.

Leovitz's Culinary Journey and Adaptation

Leovitz, an American pastry chef living and working in France, has adapted to baking both Anglophone and French styles. He recounts his experience moving to France around 2003, where concepts like carrot cake were initially met with apprehension. French consumers were wary of the frosting and the idea of carrots in a dessert. Leovitz found success by framing carrot cake as healthy ("carrots are very good for you"), which eventually led to its acceptance. Now, carrot cake, brownies, and chocolate chip cookies are commonly found in French bakeries.

Leovitz attended pastry school in France (Lenôtre) and chocolate school (Valrhona), gaining a strong foundation in French desserts. However, his personal preference and the focus of his recipes lean towards simpler, "homestyle" French cooking that people can replicate at home. He emphasizes that while many people associate France with home baking, the reality is that most French individuals purchase pastries from bakeries, and home baking often involves simpler preparations.

Specific French Desserts and Leovitz's Preferences

The discussion touches upon specific French desserts. Leovitz is praised for his "île flottante" (floating island), a dish described as similar to mayonnaise in its initial explanation to foreigners ("eggs with mayonnaise and it's really good"). He elaborates that it's a classic French dessert made with crème anglaise (custard sauce) and meringue, topped with caramelized nuts. Leovitz expresses his love for it, stating it's his go-to order when he sees it on a menu, provided it's of good quality. He agrees that poorly executed versions can be disappointing.

Regarding his personal preferences, Leovitz admits to having simple tastes. When buying dessert from a bakery, he often opts for classics like a chocolate éclair, which he believes the French excel at. He notes that while some chefs, like Pierre Hermé, can elevate simple flavors like vanilla in a tart to an exceptional level, excessive inventiveness can sometimes lead to less successful outcomes. He cites an example of a chocolate with capers and anchovies as a questionable combination.

Navigating French Culinary Skepticism

Leovitz addresses the potential skepticism he faced as an American chef in France, the "home of cooking." He admits that initially, people would try to explain French cuisine and ingredients to him. However, his prior experience working at Chez Panisse in Berkeley, California, where the cuisine was heavily influenced by French Provençal cooking, provided him with a thorough understanding of French ingredients and recipes, including obscure ones. This knowledge, coupled with his appreciation for the work of French pastry chefs and his ability to communicate effectively in French (despite occasional verb errors), helped him gain trust and acceptance within the French culinary community. He found masters in France to be open and accepting.

The Dawn of Food Blogging

Leovitz is recognized as one of the world's first food bloggers, starting his blog in 1999 while living in San Francisco, a tech-forward city. The inspiration stemmed from the release of his first book, where he wanted a way for readers to contact him with questions about recipes. This led to an unexpected influx of messages, a situation he describes as "be careful what you wish for." He notes that at the time, many people, including the French, were wary of the internet, with some believing it would "steal their soul." Despite initial skepticism, his blog became a valuable tool for connecting with people and for promoting lesser-known establishments in Paris, such as small chocolate shops like Patrick Roger and Jean-Charles Rochoux, allowing visitors to discover these places.

Revising "Ready for Dessert"

Leovitz discusses the reasons behind revising his book, "Ready for Dessert." He explains that recipes evolve over time, and as a baker, he constantly makes adjustments. Furthermore, ingredient availability in America has changed significantly, with access to French butter and other specialized ingredients now more common. Crucially, living in France inspired him to incorporate more French recipes into the revised edition. He highlights the inclusion of the maple tart from Tartine Pastry Shop (which he considers one of the best desserts globally), as well as French classics like "île flottante," "palet breton," and "rochers coco" (coconut cookies dipped in chocolate).

Conclusion

The conversation concludes with Leovitz expressing his gratitude for being on the program and the host's anticipation of enjoying the "rochers coco." The discussion underscores the dynamic and interconnected nature of culinary traditions, the importance of personal adaptation and learning, and the enduring appeal of well-executed desserts, whether classic French or beloved Anglophone creations.