Paris neighbourhoods: Inside the historic 1st arrondissement • FRANCE 24 English

The First Arrondissement of Paris: A Detailed Exploration

Key Concepts: Île de la Cité, Conciergerie, Sainte-Chapelle, Comédie-Française, Molière, Fontaine des Innocents, Les Halles, Angelina’s, Parisian History, French Gastronomy, Theatre History.

I. Historical Foundations: Île de la Cité & The Conciergerie

The first arrondissement, or Île de la Cité, represents the original heart of Paris, dating back to 250 BC when a Celtic tribe, the Paresi, settled along the Seine River. Over time, French kings and queens constructed their initial château and gardens here, establishing it as a seat of power. The Conciergerie, originally a royal palace built by the Latin in the 4th century AD, evolved under Clovis I into a political capital for the Frankish kings.

The Conciergerie’s history took a turn in the 14th century when Charles V, facing threats from the British army and internal civil war, deemed it insecure and moved the royal court to the Louvre. Consequently, the palace was repurposed as a prison. This function continued through the French Revolution, notably housing Marie Antoinette. Her cell, a small space guarded constantly due to previous escape attempts, is still visible today. Marie Antoinette was transported to the Place de la Concorde for execution on October 16th, 1793, a journey delayed by massive crowds eager to witness the event.

Beyond Marie Antoinette, the Conciergerie held a diverse range of prisoners, including revolutionary women like Charlotte Corday, Lucile de Mulan, and Manor. Today, the building largely houses the Ministry of Justice, with only a portion open to the public as a museum. Adjacent to the Conciergerie is the Sainte-Chapelle, a chapel commissioned by Louis IX (Saint Louis) renowned for its stunning stained-glass windows and its historical role as a repository for religious relics.

II. The Legacy of French Theatre: La Comédie-Française

The first arrondissement is also home to La Comédie-Française, the world’s oldest continuously performing theatre company. Situated across from the Louvre, membership in the troupe carries significant benefits, including a pension and the right to use the designation “de Frances” in other productions. The theatre is deeply associated with Molière, France’s most celebrated playwright, even though it was officially founded after his death.

In 1680, Louis XIV merged two rival Parisian theatre companies to create the Troupe Royale de Frances. Molière’s comedies, such as Tartuffe, The Miser, and The Misanthrope, were pivotal in establishing the theatre’s identity, satirizing the absurdities of contemporary society. Molière’s influence on the French language is so profound that it is often referred to as “the language of Molière.” He tragically died from tuberculosis immediately after performing in his play Le Malade Imaginaire (The Imaginary Invalid).

Notable alumni of La Comédie-Française include Jean Moreau and Isabelle Adjani. The most prestigious theatre award in France, Les Molières, is named in his honor. Historically, becoming an actor meant excommunication from the Catholic Church, but the profession now enjoys significant prestige.

III. From Cemetery to Commerce: Fontaine des Innocents & Les Halles

The Fontaine des Innocents, the oldest monumental fountain in Paris, was recently renovated for the Paris Olympics. It stands as a memorial to what was once Paris’s largest cemetery during the Middle Ages. Millions of Parisians were buried here, often in mass graves linked to outbreaks of the plague. By the 1780s, the unsanitary conditions – stench, rats, and disease – prompted authorities to relocate the remains to the Paris Catacombs. The former cemetery site now thrives as a hub of bistros, cafes, and Forum des Halles, Paris’s busiest mall.

Les Halles itself has a rich history, originating in 1135 when Louis VI established a proper food market. For over 800 years, it served as the central marketplace for Parisians, evolving into a sprawling iron and glass structure by the 19th century. Émile Zola famously dubbed it “the belly of Paris” in his novel. However, by the 1960s, congestion, hygiene concerns, and public complaints led to its relocation to Rungis just outside the city.

The vacated space underwent several transformations. The initial attempt in the 1970s resulted in a concrete underground shopping center, Le Forum des Halles. A more recent renovation completed in 2016 created a labyrinthine underground shopping and transit hub topped by La Canop, a futuristic glass structure designed to maximize natural light.

IV. Parisian Indulgence: Angelina’s & the Art of Hot Chocolate

The tour concludes with a visit to Angelina’s, an iconic tea room founded in 1903, located on Rue de Rivoli near the Tuileries Garden and the Louvre Museum. Angelina’s has been a favorite among Parisian elites for decades, frequented by figures like Marcel Proust and Coco Chanel, who had her studio nearby.

The tea room is renowned for its elegant décor, signature pastries like the Mont-Blanc, and, most famously, its hot chocolate. Described as “basically like a melted chocolate bar with real whipped cream,” it is considered a quintessential Parisian treat.

Notable Quote:

“It is in this place in this palace that was invented probably what we call the high gastronomy and the tradition of the French banquet and the French feast with high quality ingredients and values.” – Tour guide at the Conciergerie, discussing the origins of French cuisine.

Data/Statistics:

• The Conciergerie dates back to the 4th century AD.
• Marie Antoinette’s journey to the guillotine took an hour despite being only a 15-minute walk.
• Les Halles market operated for over 800 years.
• Angelina’s was founded in 1903.

Synthesis/Conclusion:

The first arrondissement encapsulates the layered history of Paris, from its Celtic origins to its evolution as a royal, political, and commercial center. The exploration of sites like the Conciergerie, La Comédie-Française, Les Halles, and Angelina’s reveals a dynamic narrative of power, art, commerce, and culinary indulgence. The arrondissement serves as a microcosm of Parisian identity, showcasing its enduring legacy and its capacity for reinvention.