Once a food delivery rider, this ex-Masterchef star now champions Malay cuisine

Key Concepts

• Modern Malaysian Cuisine: Ilia’s focus on reinterpreting traditional Malay dishes with contemporary techniques and presentation.
• Sudu: Ilia’s home-based dining experience showcasing modern Malay cuisine.
• Tu Masak Kichap: A humble, everyday Malay dish (beef/chicken simmered in soy sauce) that Ilia elevates and presents as a sophisticated starter.
• Cultural Representation: Ilia’s motivation to highlight Malay Singaporean cuisine, particularly after feeling it was overlooked.
• R&D (Research & Development): The rigorous testing and refinement process Ilia undertakes to balance flavors and perfect dishes for Sudu.

From Food Delivery to Fine Dining: Ilia’s Journey with Modern Malay Cuisine

Ilia, a self-taught home chef, recounts his unexpected path to creating “Sudu,” a unique dining experience centered around modern Malaysian cuisine. Initially dismissing a culinary career, Ilia’s participation in MasterChef Singapore Season 3 (reaching the top five) proved a pivotal moment, despite his initial disappointment at not winning. He describes feeling unworthy of victory, believing he had more to offer, a sentiment sparked by a celebrity judge’s omission of Malay Singaporean cuisine during a show segment. This oversight became the catalyst for Ilia’s culinary focus.

Early Influences & Self-Taught Techniques

Ilia’s early culinary education was unconventional. His mother prohibited him from using the kitchen, forcing him to operate “like a ninja” – ensuring it remained spotless before and after his clandestine cooking sessions. His brother faced a permanent ban after a single kitchen use. Consequently, he primarily learned cooking techniques through television. While possessing a natural “food food” (a love for food), he didn’t actively practice until his MasterChef experience. Prior to this, Ilia held various jobs, most recently as a food delivery rider. This role exposed him to the diverse culinary preferences of different socioeconomic groups, particularly the “Atas” (upper class), prompting him to question whether his cooking could meet their standards.

Deconstructing & Reconstructing Tradition: Tu Masak Kichap as a Case Study

Ilia demonstrates his approach to modernizing traditional dishes through his rendition of Tu Masak Kichap. He describes it as a humble dish, commonly enjoyed in Malay households but rarely served to guests. His ambition is to elevate this everyday meal, presenting it as a sophisticated starter. The dish is meticulously constructed with components like caramelized onion, soy confit egg yolk, burnt onion cream, soy caviar, and lime leaf powder, designed to offer a familiar yet unexpected flavor profile. A diner’s reaction – “it kind of tastes familiar and yet not really like anything unfair” – illustrates the success of this deconstruction and reconstruction.

The Challenges of Launching Sudu & the Importance of R&D

The initial launch of Sudu was fraught with difficulty. Ilia recounts a moment of near-abandonment after his first service, overwhelmed by the challenges. He emphasizes the extensive and “very expensive” Research & Development (R&D) process involved in refining his dishes. This involves constant tasting and adjustment (“R&Bs” – referring to recipe balancing) to ensure flavor profiles are harmonious and suitable for the menu. He stresses that Sudu is a work in progress, “Definitely not a finished product.”

Demographic Shifts & the Value of Diverse Palates

Initially, Sudu’s clientele was predominantly Malay. However, engaging an influencer significantly altered the demographic, attracting a more diverse audience, including non-Malays. Ilia welcomes this shift, viewing it as an opportunity for cross-cultural exchange. He describes a particularly memorable experience with a French diner who initially appeared critical and demanding, relentlessly questioning his cooking methods and temperatures. Ultimately, the diner thoroughly enjoyed the experience, validating Ilia’s approach and reinforcing his belief that he was on the right path. “If I can convert a French guy, that must be a success.”

Beyond the Plate: Cultural Education & Holistic Dining

Sudu extends beyond simply serving food. Ilia integrates traditional Malay elements into the dining experience, including bate (traditional Malay block printing) inspired watercolor illustrations on the menu showcasing ingredients, and napkins folded to resemble kures (traditional flower arrangements). He frames his current role as an evolution of his previous career as an education consultant, now focusing on educating diners about Malay culture. His ultimate goal is for guests to leave with not only a full stomach but also a deeper understanding and appreciation of Malay food and culture. As he states, he is “educating on Malay culture.”