Noto: A Resilient Peninsula - CYCLE AROUND JAPAN

The Noto Peninsula: A Bicycle Journey of Recovery and Tradition

Key Concepts: Noto Peninsula, Earthquake Recovery, Traditional Japanese Cuisine (Kabura Sushi, Ishidi), Salt Production, Fermentation, Community Resilience, Culinary Culture, Bicycle Touring.

Introduction

This documentary follows cyclist Zach Reynolds on a 250km journey through the Noto Peninsula in central Japan, approximately two years after the devastating January 2024 earthquake. The journey explores the region’s unique culinary traditions, the impact of the earthquake on local communities, and the ongoing efforts towards recovery and preservation of cultural heritage. The narrative emphasizes the harmonious relationship between the people of Noto and their natural environment.

1. The Journey Begins: Kanazawa and the Coastline

The trip commences in Kanazawa, a city retaining its samurai heritage, with bustling markets showcasing fresh local produce, including fish and crab. Zach, an Australian bicycle company employee and tour guide, expresses his anticipation for experiencing the region’s food and assessing the progress of earthquake recovery. The first day’s ride takes him along the coastline to the inland countryside. A highlight is Chidihama Beach, an 8km stretch of compacted sand uniquely suitable for cycling, due to the fine and uniform grain size. The region in November is characterized by autumn colors – reds, oranges, and yellows – though slightly early in the season during Zach’s visit.

2. Inland Exploration: Rice Plains, Swans, and Kabura Sushi

Moving inland, Zach enters the Ochi plain, Noto’s largest rice-producing area. He observes tundra swans migrating from Siberia, drawn to the fertile soil and lagoons. A key encounter is with 84-year-old OmiCo, a local vegetable grower renowned for making kabura sushi (turnip sushi).

• Kabura Sushi Process: The process involves pickling turnips in salt for a week, then filling slits in the turnips with mackerel pickled in sweet vinegar. These are then covered in fermented rice and left to rest for another week.
• Community Sharing: The documentary highlights the strong community spirit, exemplified by neighbors like Okayama Kazumi sharing their harvests (vegetables and yuzu) with OmiCo. Okayama, a high school teacher, previously invited OmiCo to teach students the kabura sushi recipe, aiming to preserve this diminishing local tradition.

3. Noto Island: Local Cuisine and Ishidi Fermentation

Day two involves a trip to Noto Island, a 72km circumference island surrounded by calm seas. Zach stays at an inn run by Australian chef Benjamin Flatt and his wife, Chikako. The inn specializes in Italian cuisine incorporating locally sourced, fermented ingredients.

• Ishidi – The Fermented Core: A central element of the culinary experience is ishidi, a fermented paste made with fish guts and salt. The 2020 batch is sampled, described as having a strong, seafood-like, and salty flavor. The process varies regionally; Noto uses squid, while Wajima uses sardines and mackerel.
• Ben Flatt’s Culinary Philosophy: Ben learned the ishidi preparation from Chikako’s parents, emphasizing the importance of adhering to traditional methods. He believes in complementing, not overpowering, the flavors of local ingredients with ishidi. As he states, “It’s not about over exploding it with the flavor of the squid. It’s compliment and make it make it one dish.”
• Preserving Tradition: Ben’s dedication to traditional fermentation reflects a broader effort to preserve Noto’s deep-rooted food culture.

4. Wajima: Earthquake Impact and Market Resilience

Day three focuses on Wajima, a city severely impacted by the 2024 earthquake. Zach observes ongoing demolition of damaged buildings, including the former site of the historic Wajima morning markets, which had operated for over 1,200 years and spanned 350m.

• Earthquake Aftermath: The earthquake, occurring on January 1st, 2024, caused fires and widespread destruction. Zach reflects on the challenging conditions faced by residents during evacuation in the winter cold.
• Temporary Market: Despite the devastation, a temporary morning market has been established within a shopping complex, allowing local vendors who lost their shops to continue selling their goods, including lacquered chopsticks (a traditional Wajima craft).
• Toshima Tako’s Story: Zach meets Toshima Tako, a local vendor selling turban shells simmered in salt and sake, highlighting the enduring warmth and community spirit of the market.

5. Suzu and the Art of Salt Making

On the final day, Zach cycles to Suzu, near the peninsula’s northern tip, and visits Yamagishi Jun Ichi, a salt maker following a 500-year-old tradition.

• Traditional Salt Production: The process involves spreading seawater across sand, drying it in the sun, and then boiling the extracted salt water for 24 hours to form crystals.
• Aging Population & Succession: The documentary highlights the challenge of preserving this tradition due to the aging population of salt artisans.
• Shinszakaya Atsushi’s Commitment: Shinszakaya Atsushi, a former chef, has become Yamagishi’s apprentice, demonstrating a commitment to continuing the craft. Yamagishi’s salt works suffered damage in the earthquake, including landslides and road closures, but he remains dedicated to his work.

6. Reaching the Tip and Reflections

Reaching the northern tip of the peninsula, Zach reflects on his journey. He emphasizes the value of preserving local food culture, the resilience of the community, and the importance of supporting the region’s reconstruction. He notes the unique preservation and fermentation techniques, like kabura sushi and ishidi, and the efforts to blend tradition with innovation. He concludes by encouraging visitors to experience the Noto Peninsula and support its recovery.

Conclusion

The documentary portrays the Noto Peninsula as a region deeply connected to its traditions and natural environment, facing the challenges of recovery with remarkable resilience. It underscores the importance of preserving cultural heritage, supporting local artisans, and fostering community spirit in the face of adversity. The journey highlights the power of food as a unifying force and a symbol of hope for the future of Noto.