MPs hear evidence on the science and regulation of hair and beauty products and treatments

Key Concepts

• Regulatory Gaps: Significant inadequacies exist in the regulation of beauty and hair treatments, particularly concerning services rather than products, leading to widespread illegal practices and consumer harm.
• Consumer Risk: Consumers face risks from unqualified practitioners, counterfeit products, and the long-term health effects of chemicals in beauty treatments, with disproportionate impacts on women, women of color, and younger individuals.
• Hair Relaxer Concerns: Evidence links hair relaxer use to serious health issues like cancer, fibroids, and kidney failure, highlighting the need for targeted research and regulation.
• Professionalization Debate: Balancing the need for stricter professional standards with the desire to support entrepreneurship within the beauty sector presents a complex challenge.
• Enforcement & Accountability: Strengthening enforcement of existing regulations, holding social media companies accountable for promoting unsafe practices, and addressing funding cuts to Trading Standards are crucial for consumer protection.

Regulation and Oversight of the Beauty Industry

The hearing consistently highlighted the inadequacy of current regulations governing the beauty and hair industries. A central theme was the distinction between the robust regulation of cosmetic products and the largely unregulated nature of cosmetic services. Participants advocated for a licensing scheme for aesthetic services, potentially tiered based on risk (red, amber, green), involving regulated qualifications, premises inspections, and thorough patient consultation protocols (Safe Face utilizes a 116-point assessment). The current system allows unqualified individuals to operate, exemplified by cases like Victoria Lee’s severe complications following a Botox treatment from an unqualified practitioner and the tragic death linked to a “liquid BBL.” The lack of prescription requirements for dermal fillers was repeatedly cited as a critical flaw, with calls for their reclassification as prescription-only medications.

Consumer Harm and Specific Risks

Numerous examples illustrated the potential for consumer harm. Victoria Lee detailed a harrowing experience with Botox, describing a life-altering ordeal involving boils, infections, and surgery. The case of Alice Webb, who died following a liquid BBL, was also referenced. A significant focus was placed on the health risks associated with hair relaxers, particularly for Black women. Research from Oxford University indicates a 30% increase in breast cancer risk associated with their use, and Level Up research revealed that 77% of Black women are unaware of these links. Harmful chemicals like sodium hydroxide and glycolic acid, even in products labeled “no lye” (which were found to contain sodium hydroxide), were identified as key contributors to these risks. The prevalence of counterfeit products further exacerbates these dangers. 48% of complaints received by Safe Face come from women aged 18-25, and 60% of those harmed were unaware of the risks.

The Role of Social Media and Public Awareness

Social media’s role in promoting unsafe practices was a major concern. The panel discussed the challenges of combating misleading advertising and the suppression of safety information, with algorithms often prioritizing promotion over warnings. Calls were made for social media companies to be held accountable and for the Online Safety Bill to be utilized more effectively. While public awareness campaigns were acknowledged as valuable, panelists stressed that regulation and enforcement are paramount. Danielle emphasized that “cheap treatments are in fact too good to be true and they will end up costing far more than you bargained for.”

Professionalization, Training, and Research Disparities

The debate surrounding professionalization centered on balancing consumer safety with the need to support entrepreneurship, particularly for the 86% of the beauty industry that is female-owned. Concerns were raised that stricter requirements could create barriers to entry. A significant issue identified was the disparity between Further Education (FE) and apprenticeship standards, with FE provision lagging seven years behind. The planned introduction of V levels (following the removal of T levels) is seen as a potential solution, but is still years away. A critical point raised was the lack of research on the impact of chemicals used in beauty products, particularly on women and women of color, attributed to historical biases in medical research.

Industry Regulation and Future Steps

Industry representatives maintained that the sector is “very well regulated” regarding product safety, adhering to UK REACH and CLP regulations and undergoing rigorous scientific assessment. They emphasized the importance of enforcing existing regulations and combating illegal operators. However, concerns were raised about the speed of regulatory response to emerging issues and the need for continued scientific assessment of long-term exposure to cosmetic ingredients, citing the example of vitamin A (retinol) and recent EU regulations. The successful regulation of gel nail polish, addressing allergic reactions to acrylate monomers, was presented as a positive example of responsive legislation. The beauty sector, valued at £25 billion (1% of UK GDP, employing 697,000 people), was urged to proactively invest in consumer protection measures.

Conclusion

The Select Committee hearing revealed a beauty and hair industry grappling with significant regulatory gaps and potential consumer harm. While the sector is economically important, the evidence presented underscored the urgent need for stronger regulation, improved enforcement, increased accountability for social media platforms, and a commitment to addressing research disparities. Balancing the desire to foster entrepreneurship with the paramount importance of consumer safety remains a key challenge, requiring a collaborative approach between regulators, industry stakeholders, and the public. A proactive, scientifically informed, and consistently enforced regulatory framework is essential to protect consumers and ensure the long-term sustainability of this vital industry.