Modern Sambal, Tribal Sambal & Royal Snail Curry From Singapore & Malaysia | In Search Of Heat

CNA InsiderAbout 5 min readJun 26, 2025Watch original
THE SUMMARYAI-generated

Key Concepts:

  • Farm-to-table cuisine
  • Modern Malay cuisine
  • Sambal (chili paste) variations
  • Indigenous Malaysian cooking (Orang Asli)
  • Austronesian culinary links
  • Nose-to-tail cooking
  • Kong chili
  • Sous vide cooking
  • Spice balance in Malay food

1. Introduction: A Culinary Journey for Spice

  • Kevin, a Fiji-born private chef and photographer, embarks on a culinary journey through Malaysia and Thailand in search of spicy ingredients and dishes.
  • The journey focuses on exploring the "farm-to-table" concept and utilizing ingredients from "nose to tail."

2. Modern Malay Cuisine with Chef Ilia

  • Farm-to-Table in Singapore: Kevin starts by showcasing his urban farming efforts in Singapore, emphasizing the importance of sourcing ingredients directly from the soil.
  • Chef Ilia and Sudu: Kevin visits Chef Ilia, who runs Sudu, a private dining experience that presents modern interpretations of Malay dishes. Ilia aims to showcase authentic Malay flavors in a contemporary setting.
  • Bto (Botok) Fish Modernization: Ilia prepares a modern version of Bto, a traditional Javanese dish of fish mixed with spices, herbs, and chili, wrapped in banana leaves, and steamed.
    • Sous Vide Technique: Ilia uses the sous vide technique (French for "under vacuum") to precisely control the cooking temperature of the sea bass. He cuts the fish into strips, tops them with powdered kafir lime leaves, and wraps them in pennywood leaves before poaching in an airtight bag.
    • Sambal Sauce: The key element of Bto is the spicy sambal sauce. Ilia creates a unique texture by blending chilies, spices, and herbs, then adding cream and straining the mixture through a sieve.
  • Smoked Sambal Butter: Ilia is also known for his smoked sambal butter, made by smoking the sambal with cloves and mixing it with butter.
  • Spice Balance: Ilia emphasizes that Malay food is not just about spice but also about balancing it with other flavors, such as the coconut rice in nasi lemak.
  • Tasting and Appreciation: Kevin tastes Ilia's modern Bto and appreciates the delicate flavor of the sous vide fish and the balanced spice level. He also enjoys the sambal butter.
  • Chef Ilia's Perspective: Kevin admires Ilia for taking the challenging path of modernizing Malay cuisine, staying true to his identity.

3. Exploring Indigenous Cuisine with the Orang Asli

  • Journey to Malaysia: Kevin travels to Peninsula Malaysia to visit an indigenous village of the Orang Asli (original people) to learn about their traditional sambal made from a wild plant.
  • The Orang Asli: The Orang Asli are a national minority in Malaysia, divided into 18 tribes. Their ancestors were part of the Austronesian migration.
  • Don Samok Plant: Kevin learns about the Don Samok plant, a wild forest plant used by the Orang Asli to season their food before the introduction of onions and other relishes.
  • Tewan-Style Sambal: Kevin's friends Lisa and Paris from the Temuan tribe show him how to make a Temuan-style sambal using the simomok plant.
    • Ingredients: The sambal includes simomok root, kong chilies (more fragrant), anchovies, garlic, and onions.
    • Samomo Leaf: The samomo leaf is added for its curry-like flavor.
  • Traditional Meal: Chef Paris prepares grilled tilapia fish served with boiled tapioca, a staple carb.
  • Sambal Tasting: Kevin describes the sambal as having a medium heat (4-5 out of 10) and a distinct simomok aroma.
  • Farm-to-Table Perspective: Kevin realizes that farm-to-table can also mean farming for flavor and scent, not just for large-scale consumption.
  • Austronesian Link: Kevin notes the connection between the Filipino root crop "ube" and the Orang Asli term "ube" for the same crop, highlighting potential anthropological clues.

4. Malacca's Culinary Heritage with Chef Lynn

  • Malacca: Kevin visits Malacca, a UNESCO World Heritage site known for its colonial history and multicultural cuisine.
  • Seut Burai (Barai Snails): Kevin meets Chef Noalina (Chef Lynn), who introduces him to seut burai, a type of shellfish used in ancient recipes.
  • Historical Inspiration: Chef Lynn re-imagines ancient dishes inspired by the royal banquets of the Malacca Sultanate, based on research from the Sajara Mallayu (a collection of stories about ancient rulers).
  • Gulai Seut Burai and Gulai Rousa: Chef Lynn prepares two gulai (curries): gulai seut burai (snails in chili patty gravy) and gulai rousa (venison in spicy gravy). Both dishes feature kong chilies and spices.
    • Preparation: The snails are cleaned and soaked in chili-infused water. The chili patty mix is fried with bamboo, and coconut milk is added to create the curry.
    • Spice Differences: The gulai rousa has a stronger Indian influence due to the use of spices like star anise, ginger, cinnamon, cumin, and fennel to remove the gamey taste of the venison.
  • Tasting: Kevin enjoys the seut burai, noting the balanced spice level and the light sting from the white pepper. He also appreciates the rare venison dish.

5. A Kong Feast and Celebration of Heat

  • Kong Spirit: Kevin prepares a feast for his Malaysian friends to celebrate their shared love for heat.
  • Rousa Soup: He makes a soup using rousa (venison), inspired by the seut paray ciphers (discarded parts of the snails) for a nose-to-tail approach.
  • Puchup Pako: He also prepares puchup pako (fiddlehead ferns) cooked in santan (coconut milk), inspired by Chef Paris's grilled fish.
  • Community Gathering: The feast turns into a community gathering, with people from other villages joining in.
  • Appreciation for Rousa: Many attendees express their excitement at trying rousa, as it is a rare delicacy.

6. Conclusion: Land-to-Table and Holistic Utilization

  • Land-to-Table: Kevin concludes that the idea of farm-to-table extends to "land-to-table," emphasizing the use of both wild and domesticated produce.
  • Holistic Utilization: The best practice is to use every part of the ingredient, from head to tail or leaves to root.
  • Importance of Heat: The journey highlights the significance of adding a "nice dash of heat" to the cuisine.

Main Takeaways:

The video explores the diverse ways spice is used in Malay and indigenous Malaysian cuisine, emphasizing the importance of fresh, local ingredients and the balance of flavors. It highlights the concept of "land-to-table" and the value of utilizing all parts of an ingredient, from nose to tail or leaves to root. The journey showcases the culinary traditions of different communities and the innovative approaches of chefs who are modernizing traditional dishes.

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