Keeping Okinawa's traditional sea snake cuisine aliveーNHK WORLD-JAPAN NEWS

Key Concepts

• Irau (伊良部): Smoked sea snake, a traditional dish of Okinawa, particularly Kudaka Island.
• Idabu (イダブ): The sea snake species used to make Irau.
• Yuku Kingdom (ユク王国): The historical kingdom that once ruled the Okinawa Islands, where Irau originated as royal court cuisine.
• Kudaka Island (久高島): The small island central to the Irau fishing and smoking tradition.
• Sacred Rituals: The fishing and smoking of Irau are deeply rooted in spiritual and cultural practices, including elements of nature worship.

The Irau Tradition of Kudaka Island: A 400-Year Legacy

This report details the enduring tradition of Irau – smoked sea snake – in Okinawa Prefecture, specifically focusing on its preservation on the tiny island of Kudaka. The practice dates back 400 years to the era of the Yuku Kingdom, where Irau was considered royal court cuisine. Today, it remains a beloved dish, particularly enjoyed during celebrations, and is believed to have health benefits, including improved circulation, blood purification, and detoxification.

Irau Fishing: A Nocturnal and Reverent Practice

Irau fishing takes place over a six-month period annually and is currently practiced by only three individuals, including Nishime Masahiro, a 74-year-old fisherman. The fishing occurs at night within a cave connected to the sea, a location used for over 400 years. Nishime emphasizes the practice is not simply about catching fish, but a form of “nature worship,” taking only what can be caught by hand – eschewing tools. He states, “I catch them hoping for the development of Kudaka Island. We cannot let the tradition die with our generation.” This highlights the strong connection between the tradition and the island’s identity and future. The process involves patiently waiting for the Idabu sea snakes to emerge from the sea to lay their eggs on the rocky shore, then carefully capturing them from behind to avoid startling them. It’s noted that Idabu are highly venomous, adding to the skill and respect required in the process.

Processing and Smoking: From Catch to Culinary Delicacy

Following the catch, the sea snakes undergo a meticulous processing procedure. This involves boiling them until tender, detoxifying them, removing scales, and cleaning their internal waste. This preparation is crucial for making the Irau safe and palatable. The smoking process itself is a sacred ritual restricted to only two individuals, including Nishime. The Idabu are smoked for seven days within a designated “smoking hat” – a sacred space.

Revival of a Tradition & Concerns for the Future

The Irau tradition faced a temporary interruption due to the absence of female priests, essential for certain aspects of the ritual. However, the island’s men successfully revived the practice, demonstrating a commitment to preserving their cultural heritage. One participant notes the difficulty of the process, stating, “I used to watch my grandmother do this. Now that I'm actually doing it myself, I realize how difficult it is.” This underscores the depth of knowledge and skill required, passed down through generations.

Nishime expresses his dedication to continuing the tradition, stating, “I believe this is Kudaka Island's pride, something found nowhere else in the world. I hope to keep going until I'm nearly 80, at least until the next generation is ready.” This statement reveals both his pride in the tradition and his concern about ensuring its continuity beyond his lifetime.

Conclusion

The Irau tradition of Kudaka Island represents a remarkable example of cultural preservation. It’s a practice deeply intertwined with the island’s history, spirituality, and identity. The dedication of individuals like Nishime Masahiro, coupled with the community’s commitment to revival, ensures that this centuries-old tradition continues to thrive even amidst a changing world. The report emphasizes the importance of passing down this knowledge and skill to future generations to safeguard Kudaka Island’s unique cultural heritage.