Keeping Japan's 400-year-old leathercraft heritage aliveーNHK WORLD-JAPAN NEWS

Key Concepts

• Koshu Inden: A traditional Japanese craft involving deer leather goods adorned with lacquer patterns.
• Lacquer (Urushi): A natural substance used for creating durable and aesthetically pleasing patterns on the deer leather.
• Stencil Technique (Kata-zome): The primary method for applying lacquer patterns using Japanese paper stencils.
• Smoked and Dried Method (Ibushi-zome): An older, specialized technique for coloring deer leather using smoke.
• Viscosity & Hardness of Lacquer: Critical factors influenced by weather conditions, requiring artisan adaptation.

The History and Significance of Koshu Inden

Koshu Inden is a 400-year-old Japanese craft originating in Kofu, Yamanashi Prefecture, centered around the creation of durable and beautiful goods from deer leather and lacquer. The craft is valued for its blend of practicality and aesthetic sensibility, reflecting Japan’s changing seasons through classic patterns like dragonflies and cherry blossoms. The current company featured in the video has been operating for approximately 400 years, now under the leadership of its 14th president. A core principle of the craft is prioritizing technical skill over simple printing methods, with a continuous drive for improvement.

Core Techniques: Stencil Application (Kata-zome)

The most widely used technique in Koshu Inden is Kata-zome – stencil dyeing. This involves meticulously creating stencils from Japanese paper (washi) and applying lacquer through these stencils onto the deer skin. A significant challenge for artisans is managing the lacquer’s properties – specifically its hardness and viscosity – which are heavily influenced by weather conditions. Because lacquer is a natural substance, artisans must constantly adapt their techniques to the material’s current state. The video emphasizes the importance of this adaptation, highlighting the artisan’s skill in responding to the lacquer’s condition.

The Specialized Smoked and Dried Method (Ibushi-zome)

The video details a more ancient and specialized technique called Ibushi-zome – the smoked and dried method. This process is only undertaken on special order and involves attaching deer skin to a cylindrical frame. The skin is then colored evenly by rotating the cylinder manually while burning straw to create smoke. Achieving a uniform color requires precise control over the smoke’s rotation, the speed of cylinder turning, and the way the straw is packed.

The packing of the straw is crucial; it must be “just right” to produce smoke without flames. The process is repeated, involving re-burning the straw after the initial smoking. Mastering Ibushi-zome requires significant experience and is limited to veteran artisans. The video showcases a stunning vertical striped pattern achieved solely through this smoking technique.

Modern Innovation and Future Outlook

Despite its long history, Koshu Inden is not static. The 14th president, Whara, and his team are actively innovating and exploring new designs to appeal to modern lifestyles. They are moving beyond traditional patterns to create products that resonate with contemporary consumers. Whara states, “We will continue to compete with Korsu Hinden, constantly innovating and exploring this craft.” This commitment to innovation is presented as key to the continued relevance and appeal of Koshu Inden.

Technical Vocabulary

• Urushi (漆): Japanese lacquer, a natural resin derived from the sap of the lacquer tree. Known for its durability and beautiful finish.
• Washi (和紙): Traditional Japanese paper, used for creating the stencils in the Kata-zome technique.
• Kata-zome (型染め): A Japanese dyeing technique using stencils.
• Ibushi-zome (燻し染め): A traditional Japanese dyeing technique using smoke.

Synthesis

Koshu Inden represents a remarkable intersection of tradition, artistry, and adaptability. The craft’s longevity is rooted in its commitment to technical mastery, particularly in managing the complexities of natural materials like deer leather and lacquer. While honoring its 400-year heritage, Koshu Inden is actively evolving to meet the demands of a modern world, ensuring its continued relevance and appreciation for generations to come. The video underscores the importance of skilled artisans, meticulous techniques, and a willingness to innovate within a deeply rooted cultural tradition.