Karuizawa: The Story of a Beloved Mountain Retreat - Dive in Tokyo

Key Concepts

• Karizawa's History: From a post town on the Nakasendo trail to an international resort area.
• Natural Abundance: Karizawa's plateau location (1000m elevation) and its appeal as a summer retreat.
• Historical Significance: Role as a resting point for travelers, including feudal lords during Sankin-kotai.
• Foreign Influence: The impact of Westerners and their desire for a similar environment to their homelands.
• Local Hospitality (Omotenashi): The efforts of locals to cater to foreign visitors despite language and cultural barriers.
• Karizawa Culture: The unique blend of Japanese tradition and Western influence, fostering a sense of equality.
• Resort Development: The philosophy of integrating resorts into the natural environment.
• Conservation Efforts: Initiatives like the Bullet Train Reserve and reforestation projects.

Karizawa: A Historical and International Resort Area

Karizawa, located approximately 150 km northwest of Tokyo, is a renowned summer retreat situated on a plateau at an elevation of 1000 meters. Its abundant natural beauty has made it a popular destination, with average high temperatures in August around 25°C. The population, which is around 40,000, swells to over 100,000 during the summer months. Karizawa is beloved not only by Japanese people but also by business leaders and international visitors.

Historical Roots: A Post Town on the Nakasendo Trail

The area's history is deeply intertwined with the Nakasendo trail, a major route connecting Edo (Tokyo) and Kyoto during the Edo period.

• Early Beginnings: The oldest Shinto shrine in the area dates back to 1900 years ago, with a legend involving Yamato Takeru no Mikoto getting lost in the mist and being guided by a Yatagarasu (three-legged crow). The area around the current station was once a marshland.
• Resting Point for Travelers: The Usui Pass, a high point in the region, served as a resting spot for travelers. Shops and inns lined the path, offering refreshments like rice cakes, sweet red bean paste, and udon. These were crucial for travelers to regain energy, particularly carbohydrates, after their arduous journeys.
• Edo Period Prosperity: During the Edo period, the area was a bustling hub with approximately 100 inns and shops catering to travelers. The signs, some of which are still in English today, reflect the historical presence of foreigners. The town was arguably more vibrant then than it is now, with people engaging in banquets and enjoying themselves.
• The "Zeni-bako" (Coin Box): A unique practice from the Edo period involved travelers placing money into a "zeni-bako" after their stay or meal. Interestingly, some travelers would put stones or shells in the box instead of money. The fact that shopkeepers sometimes didn't check the box meant that instances of stones or shells being deposited could, paradoxically, indicate the shopkeeper was doing well, as they weren't closely monitoring the income.
• Accommodation and Entertainment: Buildings from the Edo period still exist, showcasing the historical significance of the area. The Usui Pass area was a lively place, not only for general travelers but also for feudal lords during their Sankin-kotai (alternate attendance) journeys. Women, known as "onna-shōten" (female shopkeepers), provided meals and entertainment, including singing and dancing, to guests.

The Arrival of Westerners and the Birth of a Resort

The late 19th century marked a turning point with the arrival of Westerners, who were drawn to Karizawa's natural beauty and climate.

• British Influence: The establishment of a railway in 1893 facilitated access, and many foreigners, particularly British, found Karizawa reminiscent of their homelands. Some, like David, were drawn to the area due to its similarity to their native England and its healthy environment, especially for those with respiratory illnesses.
• Community Building: The presence of foreign families led to social interactions and the formation of a community. This exchange of cultures and activities contributed to Karizawa's growing popularity.
• Early Hospitality Challenges: Early hoteliers like Satohei faced challenges in accommodating Western guests, including language barriers and a lack of Western-style amenities. They ingeniously adapted, creating beds from bound logs and using local "oyaki" (a type of dumpling) as a substitute for bread. Despite these makeshift solutions, the "omotenashi" (hospitality) was greatly appreciated.
• Villa Development: The influx of foreigners led to the construction of numerous villas, with many of the early owners having non-Japanese names. This period saw the development of a unique furniture-making culture catering to the specific needs of these foreign residents. Intricate carvings, such as cherry blossom motifs, became popular, reflecting the appreciation for Japanese symbols.

Karizawa's Unique Culture and Modern Appeal

Karizawa has cultivated a distinct culture that blends its historical past with its international appeal.

• Literary and Artistic Connections: The area has attracted notable figures, including Nobel laureate Yasunari Kawabata, who often visited and interacted with locals. Musicians also frequent Karizawa, with famous guitarists sometimes playing in local izakayas.
• A Culture of Equality: Karizawa is characterized by a tradition of equality, stemming from its origins as a place established by missionaries. There is a notable lack of social hierarchy, where prominent figures, such as company chairmen, can engage in casual conversation with local shopkeepers.
• The "Cat in the Wall" Incident: A notable anecdote involves a kitten falling into a wall at a cafe terrace. A woman, with the help of others, cut through the wall to rescue the cat, which became a local talking point.
• Preserving Natural Beauty: Strict building regulations, including minimum land area requirements (1000 sq m), building-to-land ratios (20%), and maximum building heights (10m), have been instrumental in maintaining Karizawa's natural charm and preventing overdevelopment.
• Living Resort: Unlike many other resort towns, Karizawa's appeal lies in the fact that people actually live there. The culture created by the villa owners has become a significant tourist attraction, drawing visitors beyond those who own property.
• Sustainable Resort Development: The philosophy of creating resorts that are integrated into the natural environment is a key to Karizawa's success. The "Bullet Train Reserve," established in 1997, and extensive reforestation efforts demonstrate a commitment to preserving the natural landscape. The approach of "making the most of the existing field" and creating resorts within the natural environment is considered a crucial secret to Karizawa's growth as a resort destination.

Conclusion

Karizawa's journey from a humble post town to a sophisticated international resort is a testament to its enduring natural beauty, rich history, and the unique culture it has fostered. The town's ability to blend tradition with modernity, embrace foreign influences while retaining its Japanese essence, and prioritize the integration of development with nature has cemented its status as a truly special destination. The emphasis on community, equality, and the preservation of its natural environment continues to define Karizawa's appeal for both residents and visitors alike.