Japanese wineries think outside the barrelーNHK WORLD-JAPAN NEWS

Key Concepts

• Muscat Bailey A: A native Japanese grape variety known for its fresh aromas and moderate sweetness, but susceptible to becoming watery due to Japan’s rainfall.
• Spring Tides (in viticulture): Specific times during the lunar cycle believed to influence grape quality, utilized for selective harvesting.
• Whiskey Cask Aging: A technique of aging wine in used whiskey barrels to impart unique aromas and flavors.
• Terroir: The complete natural environment in which a particular wine is produced, including factors such as the soil, topography, and climate.
• Japanese Wine Industry: A growing, but currently small, wine industry aiming for global recognition.

Yamanashi Prefecture & Muscat Bailey A: Concentrating Flavor Through Innovation

Yamanashi Prefecture is identified as Japan’s largest wine-producing region. Despite growing global recognition of Japanese wine, its export value remains significantly lower – approximately 1/170th – than that of sake. Shibutani Nihideo, establishing a winery in Yamanashi 10 years ago, focuses on the native grape variety, Muscat Bailey A. This grape offers desirable characteristics like fresh aromas and moderate sweetness. However, a key challenge is the high rainfall in Japan, which leads to diluted flavors in the grapes.

Shibutani initially addressed this by harvesting grapes exclusively during spring tides, believing this timing yielded higher quality fruit. This strategy resulted in a silver medal win at a major international wine competition in 2018. Unsatisfied with this result, Shibutani embarked on an 8-year process of experimentation to further concentrate the grape’s flavor. His solution involved using fans to actively remove excess moisture from the grapes over several months. He states, “It’s not just sweet. It has a deep flavor. It’s a rich wine. I believe we've created a category that will be recognized globally.” His market strategy begins with targeting French and Italian restaurants within Japan, followed by international expansion.

Chichibu City & Whiskey Cask Aging: A Unique Terroir & Collaborative Approach

In contrast to Shibutani’s focus on moisture reduction, Fukata Kazuhiko established a winery in Chichibu City 10 years ago, leveraging the region’s significant temperature fluctuations – considered ideal for producing wines with higher alcohol content and robust flavors. Fukata’s approach diverges from traditional winemaking through a collaborative partnership with a nearby, world-renowned whiskey distillery.

He ages his wine in used whiskey casks for a year, imparting whiskey aromas to the wine. Notably, their most popular product is a white wine infused with peaty notes. This collaboration is reciprocal; the distillery also utilizes used wine barrels to age its whiskey, creating a whiskey infused with wine aromas. Fukata highlights the advantage of this regional connection: “The regional connection is a major advantage, allowing us to quickly obtain barrels in good condition.” This innovative aging process has garnered international attention, with a French buyer purchasing 1,500 bottles last June. The buyer noted, “Japanese grapes aren't widely available overseas. They are very rare and I think the whiskey aroma also compliments them well which is why Europeans like it.”

Industry Outlook & Synthesis

The two wineries exemplify distinct strategies within the Japanese wine industry. Shibutani focuses on refining a native grape through innovative viticultural techniques, while Fukata embraces collaboration and unconventional aging methods to create a unique product. Both approaches demonstrate a commitment to overcoming challenges presented by Japan’s terroir and a desire to produce world-class wines. The success of these ventures, evidenced by awards and international sales, suggests a growing potential for Japanese wine to gain global recognition, driven by “determination and creativity,” as the narrative concludes.