Japanese craftsman shapes NY mayor's winter imageーNHK WORLD-JAPAN NEWS

By NHK WORLD-JAPAN

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Key Concepts

  • Custom Embroidery: Highly detailed and personalized embroidery work, often commissioned for unique items.
  • Digitizing: The process of converting a design into a format a computerized embroidery machine can read and execute.
  • Studio Collaboration: The importance of teamwork and combined expertise (graphic design, fashion, art) in achieving high-quality embroidery.
  • Japanese Embroidery Machines: Recognition of Japanese manufacturing for reliability, speed, and quality in embroidery equipment.
  • Hand-On Approach: The value of in-house design and production for maintaining control and quality.

The Mayor’s Jacket: A Story of Craftsmanship in Brooklyn

Introduction: The Mayor and the Jacket

The recent record-breaking winter in New York City saw Mayor Zoran Mandani frequently in the public eye, and equally noticeable was the custom-embroidered winter jacket he wore. The jacket, created by a Brooklyn-based embroidery studio, quickly garnered public attention due to its intricate design and personal touches. The design included the words "mayor" on the left sleeve, "City of New York" on the chest, and a hidden message inside the collar reading, "No problem, too big, no task too small," a quote from one of the Mayor’s early speeches.

The Studio: A Collaborative Space

The studio responsible for the jacket has a reputation for high-quality work, having collaborated with prominent brands such as Nike, Supreme, and the NBA. Despite its relatively small size, the studio prioritizes original creations over mass production. The core team consists of Yata Naru, a Japanese embroidery artist, and Rakarina and Renzo Diaz, who focus on graphic design, fashion, and art respectively. This collaborative environment is central to their success, allowing them to meet diverse client specifications. All stages, from design to final production, are completed in-house.

Yata Naru: The Japanese Artist

Yata Naru, originally from Osaka – a city renowned for its textile and embroidery traditions – is a key figure in the jacket’s creation. He initially taught himself graphic design and was drawn to the studio’s sophisticated embroidery style, eventually joining the team after presenting his portfolio. Naru described feeling “very proud” and “a little surprised” by the attention the jacket received, stating, “It was a special moment to see something I worked on being recognized by so many people.” He revealed a deliberate design choice: increasing the size of the “City of New York” embroidery after reviewing initial plans, a decision he felt was correct upon seeing the Mayor wearing the finished jacket.

The Embroidery Process: From Design to Stitch

The studio recently undertook a project for a local client involving the creation of an embroidered frog resembling sparkling jewels. This project illustrates the complexities of translating a visual design into embroidery. The process begins with “digitizing,” converting the image into a stitch pattern the machine can follow. This requires careful calculation of thread choices, layer counts, and needle movement to achieve the desired effect.

The studio utilizes a Japanese-manufactured embroidery machine with six heads and 15 colors. Naru demonstrated the machine’s operation, highlighting the vibration and the precise movement of the threads.

Machine Specifications & Studio Philosophy

Renzo Diaz, the studio’s co-manager, emphasized the importance of the Japanese machine’s “reliability, speed and quality.” He stated that a key challenge is “making sure that we meet or exceed the expectations of every client,” achieved through close collaboration at every stage, from digitizing to the technical operation of the machine. The finished frog embroidery showcased the detail achieved through layering different colored threads to simulate the jewel-like appearance.

Studio Goals and Local Impact

Looking ahead, the studio aims to continue creating work that resonates with the Brooklyn community and embrace a diverse range of projects. Naru expressed this sentiment, stating, “As a Brooklyn based studio, we want to keep creating work that makes our local community happy.”

Conclusion: Style and Substance

The story of Mayor Mandani’s jacket exemplifies how even a single garment can represent a larger narrative of craftsmanship, collaboration, and community. In a global fashion hub like New York City, the report concludes, style is increasingly defined not by brand names but by the artistry and meaning woven into the fabric itself – what is “stitched inside.”

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