Istanbul - A journey through the megacity | DW Documentary

Key Concepts

Istanbul's Dual Nature: A city of contrasts, blending ancient history with modernity, chaos with beauty, and prosperity with struggle.
Rhythm of Life: The city's pace, influenced by the call to prayer, traffic, and the constant flow of people and activity.
Resilience and Adaptation: The ability of Istanbul's residents to navigate and thrive amidst chaos and challenges.
Socio-economic Disparities: The stark contrast between wealth and poverty, with a rising homeless population and individuals struggling to make ends meet.
Cultural and Social Shifts: Evolving roles for women, the expression of individuality, and the tension between conservative forces and liberal movements.
Urban Infrastructure and Challenges: The strain on transportation systems, the constant need for maintenance, and the looming threat of natural disasters.
Community and Identity: The importance of human connection, shared experiences, and the pride in being part of Istanbul.

The Pulse of Istanbul: A City of Contrasts and Resilience

Istanbul, a sprawling metropolis straddling two continents, is characterized by a vibrant and often chaotic rhythm that deeply influences the lives of its over 16 million inhabitants. The city embodies a unique tension between its millennia-old history and its status as a modern global hub, a duality that is both captivating and at times disturbing. This summary delves into the multifaceted life of Istanbul, exploring its spiritual heart, the struggles of its marginalized communities, the pursuit of self-expression, the challenges of its infrastructure, and the enduring spirit of its people.

The Spiritual Center: The Blue Mosque and the Call to Prayer

The Blue Mosque (Sultan Ahmed Mosque) stands as a testament to Istanbul's rich Islamic heritage, attracting millions of tourists annually. Its grandeur, with six minarets, and the Imam's ability to greet visitors in multiple languages highlight its international significance. The mosque is described as the "entire country's Islamic centerpiece."

Historical Context: The separation of religion and state was enshrined in the Turkish Constitution in 1937 by Mustafa Ataturk, the republic's founder. However, current leaders are encouraging a return to religious observance.
The Role of the Muazzin: The Muazzin, responsible for the call to prayer, undergoes a rigorous selection process. The profession, once highly respected, is now often perceived as low-income, leading to societal pressure against pursuing it, as exemplified by Askin Musa Tuna, who left a university lecturer position to become a muazzin.
Evolution of the Call to Prayer: Historically, the call was made from the minarets. With modern technology like microphones, this practice has evolved, though the call still emanates from over 3,000 mosques, setting the rhythm of daily life in Istanbul.

The Unseen Lives: Taxi Driver and Photographer Chevket Sahus

Chevket Sahus, a taxi driver by profession and a photographer by passion, offers a glimpse into the city's hidden realities, particularly the lives of the homeless. His nightly journeys take him beyond the picturesque facade of Istanbul to photograph those often overlooked by society.

Documenting the Forgotten: For over 20 years, Chevket has been capturing portraits of the city's homeless, increasingly witnessing entire families living on the streets. His approach involves building rapport through compliments and conversations, often lasting "the length of a cigarette."
Rising Poverty: Chevket's work highlights the "bitter reality" of rising poverty in Istanbul, a stark contrast to the city's "grand promises." He aims to raise awareness among the public and prompt solutions from politicians.
The Bosphorus Identity: When asked about his allegiance to Europe or Asia, Chevket, a "Bosphorus boy," emphasizes his connection to the water, stating, "As long as there's water."

Self-Expression and Liberation: Shukru Kiar's Dance Studio

Shukru Kiar, a choreographer trained on Broadway, is revolutionizing Istanbul's dance scene by teaching in high heels, a practice that is popular in his Bolo district classes. His work provides a space for self-expression and confidence, particularly for women.

Breaking Conservative Norms: Shukru, originally from a conservative town in Eastern Turkey, challenges traditional gender roles. His mother, despite his unconventional path, is a supportive fan.
A Safe Haven for Women: For many Turkish women, Shukru's classes offer a rare freedom and a chance to "liberate themselves" from societal constraints, building "self-confidence and freer." This is particularly significant given the rise in reported assaults on women in Istanbul.
Masculine Expression: Men also find a sense of freedom in Shukru's classes, allowing them to express their "feminine side" which is often suppressed in Turkish society.
National Pride: Shukru aspires to achieve significant success, hoping to make his country proud and prove that a "Turk made it."

Navigating the Urban Labyrinth: Traffic and Infrastructure

Istanbul's status as the "traffic jam capital of the world" is a daily reality for its residents. In 2024, people spent an average of 105 hours stuck in traffic. The traffic control center plays a crucial role in managing the city's complex transportation network.

Aggressive Driving: The city's traffic behavior is described as increasingly aggressive, a reflection of its rapidly growing population (tripled in 40 years) and vehicle numbers.
Emergency Preparedness: The control center monitors traffic lights, dispatches roadside assistance, and prepares for emergencies, including the ever-present threat of earthquakes. Scientists estimate around 600,000 houses are at risk of collapse.
Bridge Maintenance: The July 15 Martyrs Bridge, the first of Istanbul's three bridges connecting Europe and Asia, requires constant maintenance. A recent operation involved 17 workers painting and repairing the bridge, a task that consumed 50,000 liters of paint. The bridge has also become a political symbol following the 2016 attempted coup.

The Indie Scene and Cultural Icons: Sailun Gotchett's Concert

Sailun Gotchett, an indie pop singer, is making waves in Istanbul's music scene. Her live performance is a testament to her growing career, supported by her childhood friend and choreographer, Shukru Kiar.

Bridging Worlds: Sailun commutes between London and Istanbul, balancing her international music career with her connection to her homeland.
Guest Appearance: The concert features a special guest appearance by pop icon Sertab Erener, winner of the Eurovision Song Contest for Turkey in 2003, highlighting the rich tapestry of Turkish music.
Folk Music Roots: The performance draws inspiration from Turkish folk music, described as "so rich and deeply rooted in our country," mirroring the influence of jazz and blues in Western music.

The Economic Divide: Scavengers and the Struggle for Survival

Gazi Octabi, a scavenger known as a "çekçekçi" (puller), represents a segment of Istanbul's population living on the margins. He makes a living from discarded materials, a profession that has become increasingly difficult due to economic hardship.

Precarious Existence: Gazi has lived day-to-day for over 30 years, lacking insurance, a pension, or a safety net. The economic crisis has impacted even the city's dumpsters, with fewer discarded items available.
Urban Migration and Displacement: Approximately 3 million Istanbul residents live below the poverty line, with many migrating from other parts of Turkey and neighboring countries. Some are now returning to their villages due to deteriorating living conditions.
Community of Circumstance: Gazi and his co-workers, often from the same region on the Black Sea, live together in an abandoned hamam, forming a "brotherhood of workers bound together by circumstance." Their lives are described as "already burned up."

The Nightlife and the Search for Solace: DJs and Late-Night Eateries

As midnight approaches, Istanbul's party scene comes alive, with DJs like Orun and Nodus (Seda Aldis) performing in industrial areas. The city's nightlife reflects a desire to escape the pressures of daily life.

The Appeal of Chaos: DJs like Orun find beauty in Istanbul's "chaotic city" and encourage others to "be a part of the chaos."
Economic Hardship and Club Culture: Runaway inflation and political regulations are making it difficult for clubs to stay open. DJ Nodus notes that many people are unaware of the extent of the economic crisis and continue to live in an "illusion."
The Resilience of Optimism: Despite the challenges, Seda Aldis, who founded a DJ school, remains optimistic, teaching his students to "persevere" and find inspiration in the city's vibrancy.
Culinary Traditions: Tripe Soup: Batia Corkmas masters the art of making Istanbul's famous tripe soup, a 24/7 institution in the Taksim district. This "collagen bomb" with garlic is considered a cult dish and an essential part of Istanbul's nightlife, believed to aid in metabolizing alcohol.

The Fishermen and the Bosphorus: A Connection to Nature

Kirim, a Bosphorus fisherman, represents a dwindling profession that maintains a connection to nature amidst the urban sprawl. His work highlights the challenges faced by traditional livelihoods in a rapidly developing city.

Challenges from Shipping: Over 40,000 ships pass through the Bosphorus annually, contributing to marine pollution and damaging fishing nets with discarded debris.
Navigating the Waters: The Bosphorus is described as a challenging waterway with "constantly changing with sometimes opposing currents and strong winds."
Community and Conflict: While most fishermen are related, territorial disputes can arise, though family ties help resolve them quickly.
The Fish Market: The fish market, open for an hour and a half each night, is a bustling hub of activity where the night's catch is sold, with most of it remaining in Istanbul for local consumption.

Shifting Social Landscapes: Kadikoy and LGBTQ+ Communities

The party scene has shifted from the European side's touristy and politically charged areas to the more liberal neighborhood of Kadikoy on the Asian side. This shift reflects evolving social dynamics and the search for more inclusive spaces.

Political and Economic Impact: The deteriorating economic situation and political events have led to the closure of many venues on the European side.
Kadikoy's Appeal: Kadikoy is described as a "liberal neighborhood" with a "younger, more diverse, more respectful" crowd. President Erdogan's past criticism of Kadikoy as "indecent" has, for many, only increased its allure.
Challenges for LGBTQ+ Communities: The past couple of years have been "hell for lots of communities and queers," with their lives being threatened and police shutting down parties.
Hope for Change: Despite the challenges, these communities are hoping for a future where they can "feel freer in their city again."

The Enduring Spirit: Istanbul's Treasure

The video concludes by emphasizing the resilience and pride of Istanbul's people. Despite the city's contradictions, upheavals, and chaos, there is a profound sense of belonging and a determination to remain.

The Power of Belief: The "city's greatest treasure" are the people who, "despite all of its problems still believe in it and still remain true to Istanbul."
A Way of Life: Istanbul is portrayed as a place where "letting go is a way of life," a city that constantly reinvents itself and marches on.
The Call to Prayer as a Constant: The muazzin's call to prayer, woven into the city's soundscape, serves as a recurring beacon of humility and hope, a constant in the ever-changing rhythm of Istanbul.

Synthesis/Conclusion

Istanbul is a city defined by its inherent contradictions and the remarkable resilience of its inhabitants. From the spiritual solace of the Blue Mosque to the struggles of the homeless, from the vibrant self-expression in dance studios to the daily grind of traffic, the city presents a complex tapestry of human experience. The narrative highlights the challenges posed by economic instability, political tensions, and the strain on urban infrastructure, yet it consistently returns to the indomitable spirit of the people. They navigate chaos, find beauty in adversity, and hold onto a deep-seated pride in their city, a pride that fuels their hope for a freer and more prosperous future. The constant ebb and flow of life in Istanbul, punctuated by the call to prayer and the city's relentless energy, underscores its unique identity as a place where survival and thriving are inextricably linked to embracing the beautiful, and sometimes disturbing, rhythm of existence.