Is ube the new matcha? - What in the World podcast, BBC World Service

Key Concepts

• Ube: A purple yam indigenous to the Philippines, traditionally used in desserts like Ube Halaya and Halo-Halo.
• Cultural Appropriation/Gentrification: The process where a cultural product is commodified by global entities, often divorced from its historical and cultural context.
• Supply Chain Sustainability: The challenge of meeting sudden, viral global demand for a sensitive, climate-vulnerable crop.
• Quality vs. Quantity: The degradation of agricultural standards (e.g., lower pigment intensity) caused by the pressure to scale production rapidly.

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1. The Rise of Ube as a Global Trend

Ube has transitioned from a staple ingredient in Filipino households for centuries to a global viral sensation. Its popularity is largely attributed to its vibrant, "Instagrammable" purple color, following in the footsteps of previous food trends like matcha and acai. While the trend gained significant momentum in mid-2025, it has been a "slow burn" since 2021. The ingredient is now featured in international coffee chains (e.g., Starbucks, Costa Coffee), bakeries, and even cosmetics.

2. Economic and Cultural Concerns

The rapid commercialization of Ube has sparked a debate regarding who benefits from its success:

• The "Gentrification" of Food: Critics argue that when large, non-Filipino corporations market Ube without acknowledging its Filipino origins, it strips the product of its cultural heritage. This leads to misinformation, such as instances where waitstaff incorrectly identify Ube as a "Japanese root."
• Economic Disparity: While some independent Filipino-run cafes have seen a surge in popularity, there is concern that the primary financial beneficiaries are large international chains rather than the Filipino farmers who cultivate the crop.
• Protective Sentiment: Many Filipinos feel a sense of protectiveness over Ube, as it is deeply connected to family memories and national identity.

3. Agricultural and Sustainability Challenges

Jhesset, an environmental journalist, and Miguel, from the Filipino Ube House, highlight the structural risks of this trend:

• Climatic Sensitivity: Ube is a sensitive crop susceptible to extreme weather events, which are frequent in the Philippines.
• Quality Degradation: To meet the sudden global demand, some farms have shifted focus to volume over quality. Miguel noted that while past batches contained 60–70% purple tubers, recent batches have dropped to less than 10% purple, indicating a decline in the product's integrity.
• The "Trend Trap": Farmers face a difficult dilemma: if they scale up production to meet current demand, they risk being left with a massive surplus if the trend suddenly dies, potentially having neglected other essential crops in the process.

4. Notable Quotes

• Cassielle: "When things become a trend, it's very easy for larger companies to take advantage of that... I'm really worried about supporting the Philippines economically and getting its recognition because it is indigenous to the Philippines."
• Jhesset: "I think what we are missing here is that rare opportunity to introduce and share this unique Filipino cultural and historical heritage, that really deserves its time in the spotlight."
• Miguel: "I've started to see a decline in quality ube... it really shows the quality over quantity issue."

5. Synthesis and Conclusion

The viral success of Ube serves as a case study for the complexities of global food trends. While the international spotlight can bring visibility to a culture, it often creates a disconnect between the product and its origins. The primary takeaways are:

1. Cultural Erasure: Global demand often leads to the "divorcing" of food from its cultural context, necessitating better education and labeling.
2. Agricultural Risk: Viral trends place unsustainable pressure on local farmers, threatening both the quality of the crop and the long-term economic stability of the producers.
3. The Need for Ethical Consumption: Consumers are encouraged to be aware of the origins of their food and to support authentic, culturally-connected businesses rather than just following mass-market trends.