Is fashion turning its back on body inclusivity? - What in the World podcast, BBC World Service

Key Concepts

• Straight Size: The typical thin model size in the fashion industry (UK size 4-8, 24-inch waist).
• Mid-Size: A body size between straight and plus-size, currently experiencing reduced representation.
• Plus-Size: Larger body sizes, facing minimal representation in mainstream fashion.
• Body Positivity Movement: A social movement promoting the acceptance of all body types.
• Y2K Fashion: The revival of early 2000s fashion trends, often associated with a very thin aesthetic.
• Weight Loss Drugs: Medications used for weight loss, increasingly prevalent and raising concerns about misuse and health implications.
• Unattainable Body Type: The culturally promoted ideal body shape that is difficult or impossible for many to achieve.

Fashion Industry Representation & The Return of "Skinny"

The episode focuses on a concerning trend: a significant decrease in body diversity within the fashion industry, specifically a resurgence of the “straight size” (very thin) aesthetic. Data from the Vogue Business report on Spring/Summer 2026 fashion shows reveals a stark imbalance. Out of 9,038 looks across 198 shows and presentations, a staggering 97.1% featured straight-size models. This contrasts sharply with only 2% representing mid-size models and less than 1% for plus-size models. This represents a significant shift from previous years; mid-size representation has been halved compared to last season, and New York Fashion Week saw a dramatic drop from 70 plus-size models in 2023 to just 23 this year. Milan only featured non-straight-size models in four brands, down from eight last season. Several models have reported a decline in job offers, specifically noting reduced demand for mid- and plus-size representation.

Historical Context: From Body Positivity to Current Trends

The discussion highlights a cyclical nature of beauty standards. The 2010s witnessed a rise in the body positivity movement, with increased representation of plus-size models like Ashley Graham (first plus-size model in Vogue in 2017) and a broader acceptance of diverse body types, including muscular physiques. This era encouraged individuals to embrace their natural bodies, showcasing cellulite and fat rolls as normal and beautiful. However, the current trend represents a departure from this inclusivity, with a return to the historically dominant thin aesthetic.

Defining "Skinny" & The Problem with Standards

The episode clarifies that the concern isn’t simply about thinness, but about an unhealthy and unattainable standard. “Straight size” models typically range from a UK size 4-8 (24-inch waist), while the average UK woman is a size 16 (34-inch waist – a ten-inch difference). Furthermore, models are often significantly taller than the average woman (at least 5’9” versus an average of 5’3”), meaning weight distribution differs. The emphasis is on the unrealistic expectation to achieve a body type often maintained through strict diets and exercise regimes, which are not sustainable or healthy for most individuals.

Contributing Factors to the Trend

Several factors contribute to this shift:

• Fashion Industry Laziness: Creating diverse lineups requires more planning, time, and financial investment. The industry often relies on readily available straight-size samples and last-minute casting.
• Y2K Fashion Revival: The resurgence of 2000s fashion, characterized by low-rise jeans and revealing tops, is linked to the thin aesthetic prevalent during that era. Reference images from the 90s and 2000s showcase gaunt figures, influencing current perceptions of ideal body shapes.
• Social Media & Influencers: The prevalence of thin influencers and the use of filters on platforms like Instagram create unrealistic beauty standards. Filters, like the one demonstrated in the episode, can drastically alter appearance, making it difficult to discern reality.
• Rise of Weight Loss Drugs: The increasing use of weight loss drugs, even by individuals who don’t medically require them, contributes to the pressure to conform to a thin ideal and raises concerns about potential health consequences. Pharmacists and doctors are warning about short-term side effects like nausea, bloating, and vomiting.

The Mental Health Impact & Karoline Bjornelykke's Experience

The episode emphasizes the detrimental impact of these trends on mental health. Constantly being exposed to unattainable body types can lead to unhealthy habits and negative self-perception. The interview with Karoline Bjornelykke, a Norwegian model who transitioned from straight-size to curve-size, illustrates the pressures within the industry. She recounted being placed on a harsh diet and exercise regime in Tokyo, leading to the loss of her menstrual cycle at age 18. Bjornelykke noted that while she receives work as a curve model, there's limited opportunity in the "in-between" sizes, and that the pressure to be extremely thin remains, albeit masked by euphemisms like "getting in shape." She observed that the pressure to be skinny has always been present, but is now more subtly communicated.

Data & Statistics

• 97.1% of looks presented in Spring/Summer 26 fashion shows were straight size.
• 2% of looks were mid-size.
• Less than 1% of looks were plus-size.
• Mid-size representation has been halved compared to last season.
• New York Fashion Week saw a drop from 70 plus-size models in 2023 to 23 this year.
• Milan only featured non-straight-size models in 4 brands (down from 8 last season).
• Average UK women's size: 16 (34-inch waist).
• Average straight-size model size: 4-8 (24-inch waist).
• Average model height: at least 5’9”.
• Average UK women's height: 5’3”.
• Three ads in the UK were banned due to models appearing too unhealthy and skinny.

Conclusion

The episode concludes that while trends are cyclical, it’s crucial to support body diversity and challenge unrealistic beauty standards. The key takeaway is that beauty exists in all shapes and sizes, and individuals should be empowered to embrace their natural bodies. The conversation highlights the need for greater inclusivity within the fashion industry and a critical awareness of the potentially harmful effects of social media and the pursuit of unattainable ideals. The episode encourages viewers to seek out diverse representation and prioritize their mental and physical well-being.