Inside the Chinese factories of fast-fashion giant Shein • FRANCE 24 English

Key Concepts

• Fast Fashion: A business model focused on rapidly producing high volumes of inexpensive clothing to respond to the latest trends.
• On-Demand Manufacturing: Producing goods only when an order is placed, minimizing waste and allowing for quick adaptation to market trends.
• Decentralized Supply Chain: A manufacturing process relying on a network of independent, smaller workshops rather than directly owned factories.
• Piece Rate Work: A payment system where workers are compensated based on the number of items they produce.
• Disposability: The tendency for items, particularly clothing, to be discarded quickly due to low quality or changing trends.

The Sheen Manufacturing Model in Guangzhou: A Deep Dive

This report details the manufacturing processes behind Sheen, a major player in the fast fashion industry, focusing on its operations in Guangzhou, China. The city serves as a central hub for garment production, attracting workers from across the country seeking employment in the numerous factories and workshops.

The Labor Landscape in Guangzhou

Guangzhou is characterized by a competitive labor market. Workers, like Leong Xang, actively seek employment through recruiters advertising on street corners. Negotiation over piece rates is common, with workers beginning jobs on the same day. The city boasts approximately 50,000 clothing-related businesses, with Sheen being a frequently mentioned name despite not directly owning any factories.

Sheen’s Decentralized Production Network

Founded in 2012, Sheen has become one of the world’s largest fast fashion retailers. However, its production relies entirely on a network of independent workshops. Peter Lynn, a producer for Sheen for two years, exemplifies this system. He visits suppliers to oversee production of seasonal collections, highlighting the quality and stretch of the fabrics used.

Sheen’s core strategy is an “on-demand” business model. This involves testing small batches of new clothing items, analyzing real-time sales data, and reordering successful items. This approach allows for rapid response to market trends and minimizes waste. The model is particularly suited to smaller factories capable of handling orders of 50-100 pieces, enabling Sheen to offer a vast product range. Currently, Sheen is France’s fifth largest fashion retailer.

The Impact on Producers and Workers

While Sheen’s model drives its success, producers report vulnerability due to intense price competition. Ordering from multiple factories when a product gains popularity drives down prices, squeezing profit margins. This, in turn, impacts worker wages. According to a China Labor Watch report, workers are often paid per piece, earning as little as 6 to 24 cents per item.

Despite Sheen’s stated requirement of a 60-hour work week with at least one day off, many workers regularly exceed this limit, with some reporting 75+ hour weeks – a violation of Chinese labor law. A diligent worker can earn upwards of €1,600 a month during peak periods, double the average urban manufacturing wage in China, but this requires long hours. As one worker stated, “Life isn't easy these days. I just try to work harder. If I'm being more diligent, I start around 8 or 9 in the morning and work until midnight, sometimes even longer.”

Environmental Concerns & Sheen’s Response

The rapid production and low prices associated with Sheen also raise significant environmental concerns. Nissa Cornish of Redress, a Hong Kong-based sustainable fashion NGO, points out the low quality and thin fabrics contribute to a culture of disposability. Sheen was identified as one of the industry’s biggest polluters in 2025.

Cornish emphasizes that the problem stems from both the high volume of sales and the low quality of the products, driving a cycle of constant consumption and waste. She also highlights shared responsibility, stating, “The problem with ultra fast fashion environmentally speaking is that the volume with which it's being sold and the low quality that's being produced is driving an everincreasing sense of disposability with fashion. Responsibility is shared though of course because while Shien and brands like it are producing and meeting these demands, we as consumers in the west are driving the demand.”

In a statement to France 24, Sheen defended its environmental impact, citing its on-demand production model as a means of limiting waste and optimizing resources. The company also stated that it requires suppliers to adhere to local labor laws, including regulations regarding wages and working hours, and overtime compensation.

Logistics and Final Distribution

Once manufactured, clothing is quickly packaged and shipped globally via a network of delivery drivers, reaching consumers within days. Sheen offers items like dresses, hats, trousers, and t-shirts for as little as €4.

Synthesis

Sheen’s success is built on a decentralized, on-demand manufacturing model centered in Guangzhou, China. This model allows for rapid trend response and low prices, but it comes at a cost. Producers face squeezed profit margins, workers endure long hours and low wages, and the environmental impact of disposable fast fashion is substantial. While Sheen defends its practices, the report highlights the systemic challenges inherent in the ultra-fast fashion industry and the shared responsibility of both producers and consumers.