Inside Brooklyn's Hidden Roastery Gem
By Cheddar
Partners Coffee: Redefining the Neighborhood Cafe & Navigating Industry Challenges
Key Concepts:
- Green Coffee Buying: The process of sourcing unroasted coffee beans, emphasizing long-term relationships and value alignment with producers.
- Cupping: A standardized method of tasting coffee to objectively evaluate its qualities (acidity, sweetness, body, etc.).
- Arabica Coffee: The dominant species of coffee bean, known for its flavor profile.
- Supply Chain Disruptions: Challenges in the flow of goods, impacting availability and pricing.
- Sustainability in Coffee: Practices that ensure the long-term viability of coffee production, considering environmental and social factors.
- Home Brewing Trend: Increasing consumer interest in brewing coffee at home and mastering the craft.
I. The Partners Coffee Model: Beyond Just Coffee
Partners Coffee, a Brooklyn-based roaster, distinguishes itself by prioritizing community building alongside exceptional coffee quality. Founded in 2012, the company services cafes, wholesale accounts, retail customers, and grocery stores across the US, with a strong focus on the New York area. Their approach centers on establishing deep, long-term relationships with coffee producers, often spanning over a decade. Sam Klene, the green coffee buyer, emphasizes the importance of finding suppliers who share Partners’ values, often relying on recommendations from import and export partners. As stated by Klene, “A lot of times, if there's something I know that I'm looking for, I can reach out to somebody from an import partner that we work with or I can reach out to somebody for an exporter in Columbia…and say, 'Hey, we're looking for something like this. Do you have any folks that you personally really enjoy working with?'” This focus on relationship building is central to their sourcing strategy.
II. Navigating a Volatile Coffee Market
The coffee industry currently faces significant economic pressures. The price of Arabica coffee beans has dramatically increased, reaching an all-time high of around $3.70 per pound in early 2024, compared to less than $2 a pound in January 2024. This contrasts with a previous “coffee price crisis” five years ago, where prices were too low for farmers to reinvest in their farms. The current issue isn’t simply price increase, but the speed of that increase. Adding to this, recently announced tariffs by the Trump administration – a 10% tax on nearly all imported coffee – pose a further threat, given that the US produces less than 0.1% of the world’s coffee. This lack of domestic alternatives makes the industry particularly vulnerable to supply chain shocks. Klene notes that inventory levels are lower than in the past, meaning less buffer against potential disruptions like poor harvests in Brazil, which have occurred repeatedly.
III. The Impact of Climate Change on Coffee Production
Underlying these price fluctuations is a fundamental challenge: climate change. Klene highlights the impact of prolonged hot, dry weather in Brazil and erratic monsoon conditions in Southeast Asia. Coffee plants are sensitive to extreme temperatures and frost, with frost being damaging for more than two hours. He stresses the need to engage consumers in conversations about sustainability and the challenges faced by coffee producers, stating, “I can't imagine it getting that much easier.” This suggests a proactive approach to educating consumers about the true cost of coffee and the importance of supporting sustainable practices.
IV. Investment in Infrastructure & Quality Control
To meet growing demand and maintain quality, Partners Coffee opened a new, state-of-the-art roasting facility in Brooklyn in early 2025. This facility allows for faster order fulfillment, increased capacity for wholesale orders, and a dedicated focus on quality control. The company processes approximately 1 million pounds of coffee annually. The roasting process utilizes a Probat G60 roaster, a 60 kg machine capable of handling a 132 lb sack of green coffee at a time. The process involves heating the coffee in a revolving drum with gas-fired burners, carefully monitoring temperature and time to achieve a balanced, high-quality cup.
V. The Cupping Process: Ensuring Consistent Quality
Quality control is paramount at Partners. The “cupping” process, a standardized tasting method, is used to objectively evaluate each batch of roasted coffee. Klene explains that cupping assesses basic flavors like acidity, sweetness, and bitterness, as well as body, complexity, and balance. This rigorous process ensures consistency and maintains the high standards of Partners Coffee.
VI. Signature Blends & Consumer Trends: Bedford & the Rise of Home Brewing
One of Partners’ signature products is “Bedford,” an espresso blend sourced from Sukuto in southern Ethiopia (Guji) and another undisclosed supply chain. Bedford is designed to deliver a modern coffee experience with a focus on fruit and acidity, while also performing well in milk-based drinks. The company has observed a growing trend towards home brewing, particularly among Gen Z consumers. They actively engage with this trend through social media platforms like TikTok and Instagram, providing videos and recipes to help consumers improve their home brewing skills.
VII. Community Focus & Differentiation from Larger Chains
Partners Coffee differentiates itself from larger chains like Starbucks by emphasizing community and personalized customer service. Wong, a representative from Partners, notes that Starbucks can feel “very transactional,” lacking the personal touch that Partners strives to provide. They aim to create a space where customers can relax, connect, and enjoy a meaningful coffee experience. This approach appears to be effective, as Starbucks has recently experienced declining sales and is reconfiguring its business practices. Wong states, “We want people to be in our cafes, sit down, have long conversations…At Partners, we try to make sure we connect the dots on that.”
VIII. A Holistic Approach to Partnerships
Partners Coffee prioritizes strong relationships throughout its entire supply chain, from producers to wholesale partners to retail customers. They aim to be a supportive and reliable partner at every stage, fostering mutual benefit and long-term sustainability. As stated at the conclusion of the segment, “One of the things that's really important about us is we do try to focus on our partners in the supply chain, whether that's sort of upstream or downstream.”
Conclusion:
Partners Coffee exemplifies a modern approach to the coffee industry, prioritizing quality, community, and sustainability. By forging strong relationships with producers, investing in infrastructure, and adapting to evolving consumer preferences, they are successfully navigating a challenging market and redefining the role of the neighborhood cafe. Their commitment to transparency and engagement with consumers regarding the complexities of coffee production positions them for continued success in a rapidly changing landscape.
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