I Spent Almost A Decade In Japan To Learn How To Make The Perfect Shoe | Singapore Hour

Key Concepts

• Bespoke Shoemaking: The tradition of crafting custom-made shoes to fit an individual’s feet and preferences.
• Hand-Welting: A traditional shoemaking technique where the sole is attached to the upper using a leather welt, allowing for resoling.
• FUMU: Tor Cheng Yao’s shoemaking brand, embodying a philosophy of intentionality, longevity, and personal journey.
• <i>Mono no Aware</i>: A Japanese term for the awareness of impermanence, or the transient nature of beauty.
• Traveller Series: FUMU’s more accessible line of shoes, offering customization options.
• Last: The foot-shaped form around which a shoe is constructed.

The FUMU Journey: Craftsmanship, Culture, and Connection

This video details the story of Tor Cheng Yao, a Singaporean bespoke shoemaker and the founder of FUMU, exploring his personal journey from studying economics in London to mastering the art of shoemaking in Japan and ultimately establishing his brand back in Singapore. The narrative emphasizes the deep connection between the craftsman, the shoe, and the wearer, highlighting a philosophy of intentionality and lasting quality in contrast to fast fashion.

From Economics to Shoemaking: A Shift in Perspective

Tor initially pursued a conventional path, studying economics at University College London (UCL). However, he questioned whether a career in banking aligned with his passions. A pivotal moment came during his time in the UK, where he observed a culture of shoe repair and restoration, discovering the historical technique of hand-welded shoemaking – a pre-Industrial Revolution method. This sparked his interest and led him to seek an apprenticeship.

He secured his first opportunity at Joseph Cheaney, a shoe brand, and leveraged a connection with a Japanese distributor to gain entry into the Japanese shoemaking world. This move was crucial, as Japan’s dedication to detail and craft would profoundly influence his approach. As Tor states, “One of the great things about Japanese shoemakers is they are so detail-oriented. They are so dedicated to their craft. They bring things to the next level.”

FUMU: Two Ranges and a Signature Style

Tor currently operates FUMU with two distinct ranges: a bespoke/made-to-order dress shoe line and the more accessible Traveller Series. FUMU’s house signature is a “semi-chiselled toe” – a shape that is neither fully round nor square. The Traveller Series offers customization options, including leather choices, and features a popular white and gum sole combination. Despite the accessibility of the Traveller Series, Tor maintains traditional shoemaking methods, with almost every part of the shoe being handmade.

The Bespoke Process: A Year-Long Commitment

The bespoke shoemaking process at FUMU is a lengthy and meticulous one. It begins with a detailed consultation where design preferences and leather choices are discussed, followed by precise foot measurements. The process unfolds in stages:

1. Upper Preparation: Creating the upper part of the shoe.
2. Bottoming: Constructing the sole and attaching it to the upper.
3. Lasting: Stretching the leather over the “last” (the foot-shaped mould) to form the shoe’s shape.
4. Fitting: A second appointment where a fitting shoe is assessed for adjustments.
5. Welting: Attaching a leather “welt” around the shoe, enabling resoling.
6. Sole Attachment & Finishing: Completing the shoe with the sole and final finishing touches.

Tor estimates the entire process can take up to a year from initial order to delivery. He emphasizes the importance of understanding the origin of one’s shoes, stating, “It helps to know where your shoes are coming from. This is something that you rely on. And if you can have them for years and years.”

Japanese Influence and the Concept of Mono no Aware

Tor’s time in Japan was transformative. He initially felt inadequate compared to established Japanese shoemakers, particularly Yohei Fukuda, who highlighted the gap in his skills. This led him to apprentice under Kiyo Udagawa in Saitama, where he honed his precision and dedication to the craft.

He incorporates the Japanese concept of mono no aware – an appreciation of impermanence – into his work, symbolized by a sakura (cherry blossom) motif stitched onto the tongue of his Traveller shoes. This represents the fleeting nature of beauty and the importance of appreciating the present moment. He explains, “Fumu means to step in Japanese…Like the sakuras in Japan, which is very fleeting. Each season they come and go.”

Personal Journey and Family Life

The video also touches upon Tor’s personal life, including his marriage and the birth of his son, Matty. His move to Japan was initially driven by a desire to escape limitations and pursue his childhood dream. The arrival of Matty prompted a shift in priorities, leading him and his wife to prioritize experiences and appreciate the small moments. After nearly a decade in Japan, they returned to Singapore in 2025 to officially launch FUMU and be closer to family.

Community and the Future of Craftsmanship

Tor expresses concern about the potential displacement of skilled craftspeople in Singapore’s evolving economy. He hopes to foster a community where individuals with manual skills can find meaningful work. He hosted a leather sandal-making workshop, noting the participants’ newfound appreciation for the craft. As one workshop attendee observed, “I have a lot of appreciation now for shoemaking. I used to think it was very easy.”

The Complete Journey: Craftsman, Shoe, and Wearer

Tor’s overarching philosophy centers on the interconnectedness of the craftsman, the shoe, and the wearer. He believes a shoe is not merely a product but a vessel for his journey and struggles, becoming truly complete only when the customer embarks on their own journey while wearing it. He articulates this beautifully: “To me, there's really two parts to this. The first part of it is my journey as a craftsman. The finished shoe embodies my journey and the struggles that I've been through. But what's more important is that pair of shoes is only complete when the customer takes it on their own journey.” He hopes his shoes will inspire others to step outside their comfort zones and pursue their dreams.

This video provides a compelling portrait of a dedicated craftsman, a brand built on intentionality and quality, and a philosophy that values both tradition and personal connection.