How to Make 'Perfect' Sushi With Chef Nobu

Key Concepts

• Nobu's Culinary Evolution: The influence of Peruvian ingredients and techniques on Nobu's Japanese cooking style, leading to a more "free" yet conceptually Japanese approach.
• Peruvian Cuisine: The use of fresh ingredients like cilantro, chili, garlic, olive oil, and abundant seafood, particularly in dishes like ceviche, which involves cooking fish in lemon juice.
• Nigiri Sushi Preparation: A detailed, step-by-step methodology for crafting nigiri sushi, emphasizing light handling of rice and precise placement of wasabi and fish.
• Proper Sushi Etiquette: Guidance on how to eat sushi correctly, specifically regarding the use of soy sauce and wasabi, to enhance the intended flavors.
• Black Cod Signature Dish: The origin and development of Nobu's iconic black cod dish, its historical context in Japanese preservation techniques, and its rise to popularity.
• "Codfather" Nickname: The association of Nobu with his famous black cod dish, mirroring Robert De Niro's "Godfather" persona.

Nobu's Culinary Journey and the Peruvian Influence

Nobu's culinary style was significantly shaped by his travels to South America, particularly Peru. This experience introduced him to new ingredients and techniques that broadened his perspective beyond traditional Japanese cuisine. He discovered ingredients like cilantro, chili, garlic, and olive oil, alongside a wealth of fresh seafood.

A key revelation was the Peruvian approach to fresh fish. While in Japan, fresh fish is primarily used for sashimi, Peruvians utilize it in dishes like ceviche, where the fish is "cooked" by the acidity of lemon juice. Nobu noted that soy sauce was not used in this preparation. He states, "First time I eat this, wow. So then after this one, my open eye, more my cooking style change. More like freedom, but still have to keep the Japanese concept." This led to his signature "Nobu style," which involves combining ingredients from different countries with Japanese techniques and concepts.

The Art of Nigiri Sushi Preparation

Nobu demonstrates a meticulous process for making nigiri sushi, emphasizing a light touch and specific hand movements.

Step-by-Step Nigiri Process:

1. Rice Preparation: Use sushi rice that is still slightly warm. The goal is to handle the rice gently, forming it into a light ball without compressing it too tightly.

2. Wasabi Application: Place a small amount of wasabi in the center of the rice ball.

3. Shaping (Process 1-6):

   • Step 1: Gently press the rice to create space for the wasabi and begin forming the sushi shape.
   • Step 2: Curl four fingers to create a mold for the sushi. Touch the rice with the fingers to refine the shape.
   • Step 3: Use two fingers (top and bottom) to further shape the sushi, making it more aesthetically pleasing. This is described as "pushing, not pushing."
   • Step 4: Turn the sushi.
   • Steps 5 & 6: Repeat the shaping process to achieve the final form.

4. Fish Preparation and Placement:

   • Wet the edge of the fingers that will touch the fish.
   • Take a portion of rice.
   • Apply wasabi to the rice.
   • Place the rice onto the fish, using the four-finger curl to shape it around the fish.
   • Gently touch the sushi with two fingers to refine the shape.
   • Open the hand and turn the fish to the top.
   • Use fingers to further enhance the sushi's beautiful shape.
   • Repeat the curling motion (steps 5 and 6) for final shaping.

Nobu praises the participant, Haslinda, stating, "You are perfect, Haslinda. No, seriously, I'm not joking. I'm not joking."

Proper Sushi Etiquette

Nobu also offers advice on how to eat sushi correctly to best appreciate its flavors.

• Soy Sauce Usage: He observes that many people use excessive amounts of soy sauce. He emphasizes that "you don't need it" because each piece of sushi is already prepared with wasabi.
• Wasabi and Soy Sauce Mixture: Nobu advises against mixing wasabi into the soy sauce. He explains that the wasabi is intentionally placed between the rice and the fish by the chef, and mixing it dilutes its intended impact and flavor profile. He acknowledges that people can still do it, but it's "not the right way."

The Iconic Black Cod Dish

Nobu's black cod dish is a signature creation, earning him the nickname "the codfather," a playful parallel to Robert De Niro's "Godfather" persona.

• Historical Context: Nobu explains that the origin of marinating fish for preservation dates back to a time in Japan when refrigeration was not available. Miso and soy sauce were used to marinate fish, extending its shelf life.
• Development in Los Angeles: He began using black cod in his first restaurant in Los Angeles because it was an inexpensive and underutilized fish at the time.
• Rise to Popularity: Robert De Niro became a fan, and as people tasted the dish, it gained immense popularity. Nobu states, "So my signature, this black cod."
• Pride in Imitation: Nobu expresses pride when other chefs copy his black cod dish, seeing it as a testament to its success and innovation. He says, "Even they copied, I'm so proud too."

Conclusion

Nobu's culinary philosophy is a testament to the power of cross-cultural influence and meticulous technique. His journey from traditional Japanese cooking to incorporating Peruvian flavors demonstrates a willingness to experiment and evolve. His detailed explanation of nigiri preparation highlights the artistry and precision involved in sushi making, while his insights into proper etiquette encourage a deeper appreciation of the dish. The success of his black cod dish underscores his ability to transform humble ingredients into iconic culinary experiences, rooted in both historical context and modern innovation.