How This Jewellery Brand Went From Local Label To Hollywood Staple | Singapore Hour

Key Concepts

• State Property: A contemporary fine jewellery label co-founded by Afzal and Rui.
• Inspiration Sources: Architecture, historical artifacts, personal experiences (e.g., pregnancy), and nature.
• Design Philosophy: Intuition, intent, and creating jewellery as "vessels for clients to put their stories in."
• Manufacturing Process: Utilizes a global network of specialized craftsmen and advanced technologies like 3D printing.
• Brand Identity: Emphasizes image-making, storytelling, and emotional connection with clients.
• Global Reach: Operates in 17 stores across the US, UK, Middle East, and Japan, with a vision beyond geographical boundaries.
• Collaboration: Partnered with the Asian Civilisations Museum for the Museum Collection.
• Celebrity Endorsements: Pieces worn by Nicole Kidman, Michelle Obama, and Robert Downey Jr.
• New York Market: A key event for the brand, held quarterly.

State Property: A Journey in Fine Jewellery

State Property, a contemporary fine jewellery label, was co-founded by Afzal and Rui approximately 10 years ago. Their journey began with a shared passion for design, evolving from a creative partnership into a romantic relationship. The brand has achieved significant milestones, including winning the Emerging Designer in the Accessories category at the Singapore Fashion Awards in 2017.

Early Successes and Celebrity Placements

A pivotal moment for State Property was receiving images of their jewellery being worn by prominent figures. Nicole Kidman was the first celebrity to wear their "Consonance earrings," marking their initial celebrity placement. This was followed by Michelle Obama also wearing their pieces. Robert Downey Jr. was seen wearing one of their rings on his pinky finger, and Gigi Hadid was photographed in a striking dress at the Louvre, also wearing a State Property ring. These placements were met with shock and disbelief by the founders, who humorously considered it a sign of potential completion.

Design Inspiration and Collections

The brand draws inspiration from diverse sources, translating them into distinct collections:

• Gardens Collection: Inspired by the blueprints of remarkable gardens worldwide. The "Darro necklace" from this collection is specifically influenced by the Generalife garden in Granada, Spain.
• Arcane Collection: Features the "Nemara family" of pieces. Gigi Hadid wore a ring similar to these.
• Nemara Family (Arcane Collection): During COVID-19, Rui, while heavily pregnant with their first son, Mika, designed pieces that are spherical, with some clients commenting they resemble a pregnant belly. These pieces are now popular among fathers purchasing for expectant mothers.
• Museum Collection: A collaboration with the Asian Civilisations Museum. This collection was inspired by archival pieces from Southeast Asia, specifically carvings representing vitality, fertility, and life. These motifs were integrated into classic silhouettes, featuring gold with diamonds on the reverse, creating an "optical illusion."

Global Presence and Vision

State Property has expanded its reach significantly, now operating in 17 stores across various regions, including the US, UK, the Middle East, and Japan. The founders have consistently viewed Singapore not as a limitation but as a launchpad, envisioning the brand as transcending geographical boundaries. This global ambition is now becoming a reality.

The State Property Atelier and Team

The brand's flagship store and office are located at 36 Armenian Street, opposite the Peranakan Museum. This atelier serves as the hub for the entire team and also hosts bespoke consultations in a private setting. The team includes:

• Davina: Afzal's sister-in-law, managing international retailers.
• Sui: A childhood friend of Afzal's, responsible for manufacturing.
• Zhi Han: A friend from junior college, handling digital marketing.
• Joe: Managing operations.
• Huzer: Afzal's brother-in-law, serving as the business controller.

Design Process and Challenges

Afzal describes his design approach as driven by "intuition and intent," viewing jewellery as "vessels for the clients to put their stories in." The design process often begins conceptually, with prototypes and samples being the most critical stage. During this phase, they assess scale, weight, and cost, and identify potential issues like resizing limitations. The team acknowledges struggling with the design process but has learned to "be comfortable with the discomfort" and work diligently towards deadlines.

Personal Touches and Inspiration from Mika

The daily routine often includes picking up their son, Mika, and family meals have become a cherished rhythm. Mika's experiences, such as visiting a mushroom farm and his fascination with "toadstool mushrooms," have directly inspired new design ideas. For their 10th anniversary, they are considering a collection inspired by Mika's story, incorporating elements like toadstool mushrooms, aiming for a fun and nostalgic aesthetic that captures "Mika's vibe." This marks a shift from earlier inspirations like architecture to more personal and emotional sources.

Preparing for the September Show in New York

The team is actively preparing for a significant show in New York City, held in the last quarter of the year. This event is a key focus for the brand. They are exploring new design elements, including a large pink stone, which is a new addition to their lineup. The selection of stones is intuitive; they know they have the "right stone when we just look at it and it feels right." The goal is to create pieces that remain timeless and evoke joy for years to come.

Manufacturing and Craftsmanship

State Property collaborates with a network of specialized craftsmen globally. The manufacturing process involves several stages:

1. 3D Printing: Used for prototyping, especially when clients require different sizes, allowing them to visualize the final product.
2. Polishing and Finishing: At the polishing stage, they experiment with techniques like sandblasting to enhance contrast between gemstones and metal, aiming for a matte finish to improve visual impact.
3. International Collaboration: The network of craftsmen has expanded internationally, with different parts of the world contributing to the manufacturing process.

Image-Making and Quality Control

Image-making is a crucial aspect of State Property's identity, serving as the initial point of contact for clients. The team is currently at a photo studio, editing images for the line sheet and finalizing color variants for each piece. The final stage before shipment is quality control, where pieces undergo final checks after the photoshoot. These pieces are then prepared for shipment to New York for the September market. The founders express relief and excitement, believing the collection has met or exceeded their expectations and are eager to see the reception from clients and retailers.

From Humble Beginnings to Global Dreams

State Property began in an industrial estate in Sin Ming with ambitious dreams of their pieces being worn by Hollywood celebrities, specifically mentioning Rihanna. The realization of these dreams, with their jewellery being worn by global icons, has surpassed their wildest expectations.