How A 2-Michelin Star NYC Restaurant Stays On Top | The Modern | ★★★★ | Forbes All-Star Eateries

Key Concepts

Anticipation, Excellence, Consistency, Basic Applications of Cooking, Competition, Confidence, Timing, Exposed Kitchen, Collaboration (Kitchen & Beverage), Communication, Signature Dish, Eggs on Eggs on Eggs, Memory Creation.

The Pursuit of Excellence in Fine Dining

Tom Allen, the Executive Chef of The Modern, emphasizes the importance of creating a feeling of anticipation in diners. He believes that restaurants striving for excellence should evoke excitement and a sense of nervousness in anticipation of a special experience. The Modern has maintained two Michelin stars since 2016, a feat Allen initially doubted they could achieve and sustain. This success has reinforced their commitment to unwavering excellence, setting their own standards and acting as their own harshest critics. They believe that compromising on even small details can lead to a decline in overall quality. The pressure to maintain high standards stems from demanding clientele who are willing to spend significant amounts of money, motivating the team to consistently deliver exceptional experiences. Allen believes consistent adherence to these standards is the key to growth and elevation.

Foundational Cooking Principles and Competitive Edge

The kitchen at The Modern prioritizes a strong understanding of basic cooking applications. Every dish must be seasoned, shiny, and dressed. Meat is always brushed with brown butter and seasoned. These fundamental principles are taught within the first four weeks of employment and are consistently applied regardless of an individual's progression within the kitchen. A competitive environment is crucial to avoid mediocrity. Attention to detail is paramount, from the placement of a single dill sprig to the temperature of the plate and the quality of phone interactions. Compromising on any aspect is unacceptable. Allen stresses the importance of cooking with confidence, stating that even the most skilled chef cannot produce quality results without it.

Time Management and the Exposed Kitchen Concept

Timing is critical in delivering a high-level dining experience. The goal is to provide an exceptional experience within an appropriate timeframe, recognizing that diners' time is valuable. The Modern's kitchen design features an open layout with no obstructions, allowing everyone to see where help is needed and fostering a collaborative environment. This exposed working area encourages chefs to assist each other, especially during busy periods, ensuring smooth service across all stations.

Beverage Program and Collaboration with the Kitchen

Arthur Han, the beverage director at The Modern, highlights the unique setting within the Museum of Modern Art (MoMA) as a source of inspiration. A key aspect of beverage professional development is understanding personal preferences and what excites guests. Collaboration between the beverage team and the kitchen is essential. Han describes the kitchen and front-of-house operations as moving at different speeds. Chefs focus on sourcing the best ingredients daily, while the beverage team encounters unique finds periodically. Effective communication is crucial to synchronize these efforts and create successful pairings.

"Eggs on Eggs on Eggs": A Signature Dish Breakdown

The "Eggs on Eggs on Eggs" dish is a signature item that begins the longer tasting menu. It exemplifies the restaurant's commitment to innovative and memorable experiences. The dish consists of:

1. Fried Egg Sauce: An emulsion made with fried eggs, seasoned with green Tabasco for a familiar flavor.
2. Dill-Infused Olive Oil: Made from leftover dill, blended with olive oil.
3. Pullet Egg: Sourced from younger hens for smaller yolks, poached in salted water to maintain a runny consistency.
4. Brioche Soldiers: House-made brioche, cut into perfect "soldier" shapes for dipping. The pastry team makes 10-15 loaves daily.
5. Crystal Caviar: A generous spoonful of crystal caviar from Caviari.
6. Pickled Shallots: Shallot rings are pickled and selected for their aesthetic appeal.
7. Fresh Dill Sprigs: Added for freshness and visual presentation.
8. Fleur de Sel: Fleur de sel with cracked pepper and chives is added to the egg yolk for seasoning.

Creating Lasting Memories

Allen emphasizes that the goal is not just to serve food, but to create lasting memories for diners. While specific dishes may be forgotten, the overall experience and the emotions evoked should remain memorable. The focus is on creating moments that resonate with guests and leave a lasting impression of the dining experience.