Forgotten temples in the Himalayas | DW Documentary

Key Concepts

• Tibetan Buddhism: The central religious and cultural force in Mustang, historically and in its revival.
• Monastic Restoration: The core process of preserving Mustang’s cultural heritage through rebuilding and conserving monasteries.
• Cultural Renaissance: The resurgence of Tibetan Buddhist practices and cultural identity in Mustang following decades of decline.
• Geopolitical Concerns: China’s interest in Mustang due to its proximity to Tibet and potential for exiled Tibetan activity.
• Art Conservation Ethics: The differing approaches to restoration – Western preservation vs. Buddhist restoration focused on completeness and functionality.
• Sand Mandala: A symbolic representation of the universe in Tibetan Buddhism, created and then ritually dismantled to demonstrate impermanence.
• Karmic Connection: The Buddhist belief in the influence of past lives on present circumstances, particularly relevant to Da Tulong’s dedication to the restoration.

The Kingdom of Mustang: A Cultural Revival in the Himalayas

Historical Context & Decline

The former kingdom of Mustang, situated thousands of meters above sea level in the Himalayas, served as a significant spiritual and cultural center of Tibetan Buddhism during the 15th and 16th centuries. It flourished as a trading hub between India and China, attracting merchants, scholars, and pilgrims. However, over time, Buddhism’s influence waned, leading to a general decline. The monasteries and temples, foundational to Mustang’s unique culture, fell into disrepair due to the harsh Himalayan climate. This deterioration threatened the loss of incredibly beautiful murals, considered among the finest examples of Asian religious art. The kingdom was incorporated into Nepal as a protectorate in the late 18th century, remaining independent until 2008. The 1950 Chinese occupation of Tibet and the subsequent destruction of monasteries there prompted Nepal to close Mustang to foreigners in 1950, aiming to protect its cultural heritage, but inadvertently contributing to its decay.

The Restoration Effort & Financial Challenges

Recognizing that preserving the culture necessitated saving the religion, a concerted effort began to restore the monasteries. This undertaking is a massive project, estimated to require $3-4 million and potentially 5-7 years of work for a single monastery. The work is spearheaded by individuals like Sewang Bista, nephew of the last king, and facilitated by international support, notably from an Italian foundation. Luigi Fienni, an Italian art conservator, plays a crucial role, bringing expertise and coordinating restoration efforts. The goal is not merely preservation, but active restoration to a usable state, reflecting the Buddhist belief that complete deities are essential for worship.

The Palace & Cultural Artifacts

Sewang Bista showcases the old palace, founded by the first king of Mustang, to Luigi Fienni. The palace houses significant artifacts, including a sandalwood wood wedding gift from Ladakh and gold-plated copper statues of Maitreya dating back to the 14th-15th centuries. These statues are not merely artistic objects but are considered “living gods” central to the culture and religious practice. Bista emphasizes the importance of keeping these artifacts in situ – within the palace and actively used – arguing that removing them to a museum would diminish their meaning and contribute to the erosion of the culture. He estimates each statue is worth millions of euros, but their cultural value far exceeds monetary worth.

Restoration Methodology & Ethical Considerations

Luigi Fienni’s approach to restoration differs from typical Western methods. He explains that Western conservation often prioritizes leaving damage untouched, while Buddhist restoration aims to restore completeness. He recounts reconstructing missing elements of murals – hands, flowers – despite the potential criticism of “falsifying history.” He justifies this approach by prioritizing the needs and beliefs of the local community, believing it’s crucial to respect different cultures and their unique requirements. This philosophy was instilled during his training at the Ars Labor Academy in Rome, but profoundly shifted after witnessing the artistry and spiritual significance of Mustang’s art. He trained local farmers to become conservators, ensuring the sustainability of the restoration efforts. The restoration of the Tubshin Monastery, begun in 1999, involved addressing issues like roof leaks, earthquake damage, and extensive paint loss.

The Tubshin Monastery: A Case Study

The Tubshin Monastery, built in the 15th century, is considered Mustang’s most important cultural treasure. Luigi’s work there involved not only physical restoration but also the training of local artisans. He highlights the challenges of reconstructing damaged sections, particularly identifying the original iconography and placement of elements. The importance of restoring the murals to a complete state stems from the Buddhist belief that incomplete depictions of deities are considered inauspicious and cannot be properly worshipped. The monastery’s revival has been instrumental in the broader cultural renaissance.

The Revival of Monastic Life & Education

Thirty years ago, many monasteries were dilapidated and abandoned, with a dwindling number of monks. Young monks were sent to India for education due to the lack of monastic centers in Mustang. However, under the leadership of Abbot Kunga Tenzing of Lmanang, monasteries have flourished once more. The number of monks has increased to over 100, and a school has been established offering both traditional Buddhist scriptures and modern subjects to over 70 pupils, taught by 10 teachers. This educational initiative prioritizes those with limited access to education, including orphans. The revival of monastic life has also led to a renewed interest in traditional customs, with families once again sending their secondborn sons to become novices.

Geopolitical Tensions & External Threats

The cultural revival in Mustang has not gone unnoticed by China, which views the region with concern due to its proximity to Tibet and the potential for it to become a haven for exiled Tibetans. China has constructed a watchtower, referred to as “Sauron’s eye,” to monitor activity in the region. Luigi Fienni himself became a victim of these political tensions, having his work permit revoked in 2019 without explanation, likely due to his proximity to the border.

Modernization & the Future of Mustang

The opening of a gravel road connecting Mustang to China and Nepal in 2014 has brought both benefits and challenges. While it has improved access to supplies and facilitated trade, it has also led to increased migration from the region, potentially impacting the culture. Despite these challenges, the residents of Mustang are reconnecting with their roots, and the cultural identity is strengthening.

The Sand Mandala Ceremony: A Symbol of Renewal

The annual sand mandala ceremony, performed during the harvest season, exemplifies the spiritual renewal taking place in Mustang. The intricate geometric patterns symbolize a perfected state of being and serve as a focus for meditation. The ritual destruction of the mandala underscores the Buddhist concept of impermanence. The blessed sand is then distributed to locals, symbolizing the spread of healing energy and peace.

Luigi’s Reflection & Conclusion

Luigi Fienni reflects on his long-term involvement in Mustang, emphasizing that the restoration work was about more than just preserving art; it was about giving people hope and reviving their faith. He acknowledges the emotional impact of being forced to leave, but remains committed to the well-being of the community and the preservation of its cultural heritage. The video concludes with a sense of optimism, highlighting the successful revival of monasteries, the flourishing of Buddhist practice, and the renewed connection of the people of Mustang to their cultural identity.

Notable Quote:

“These artworks are not just statues… these are living gods for us… for this culture, for these people, those statues are life.” – Sewang Bista, nephew of the last king of Mustang.

Data/Statistics:

• Estimated Restoration Cost: $3-4 million per monastery.
• Restoration Timeline: 5-7 years per monastery.
• Monks at Lmanang Monastery (current): Over 100.
• Monks at Lmanang Monastery (30 years ago): Approximately 20-25.
• Pupils at Lmanang School: Over 500 to date, currently around 70.
• Teachers at Lmanang School: 10 (8 teachers + 2 monks).