Eating Huarache, Tacos, & More in Mexico City! | Epic Food Journeys with Mark Wiens | Nat Geo

Mexico City Food Exploration: A 24-Hour Culinary Journey

Key Concepts:

• Mole: A complex Mexican sauce, often containing over 20 ingredients, including chilies, chocolate, and spices.
• Al Pastor: Marinated pork cooked on a vertical spit, originating from Lebanese shawarma, a staple of Mexico City tacos.
• Suadero: A cut of beef, slow-cooked in its own fat, resulting in incredibly tender and flavorful tacos.
• Pulque: An ancient Mesoamerican alcoholic beverage made from the sap of the maguey plant.
• Huarache: A large, oblong-shaped masa base topped with beans, meat, cheese, and salsa.
• Esquites/Elotes: Corn kernels served in a cup (esquites) or on the cob (elote) with mayonnaise, cheese, lime, and salsa.
• Vuelve a la Vida: A seafood cocktail intended as a hangover cure, featuring a variety of seafood and vibrant salsas.
• Cazuela: A clay pot used for cooking and serving traditional Mexican stews.

I. Morning: Homestyle Breakfast at Fonda Margarita (6:30 AM)

The day begins at Fonda Margarita, a family-run restaurant established in 1948, renowned for its hearty Mexican breakfast. The restaurant is characterized by its bustling atmosphere, communal tables fostering interaction, and a variety of dishes bubbling in clay cazuelas. The focus is on food cooked over charcoal, imparting a smoky flavor. Key dishes sampled include chicharrón (fried pork skin) in green salsa, described as a “wake-up call” due to its sourness from green tomatoes, and black beans scrambled with eggs. The longaniza sausage is highlighted for its sourness, dissolving onions, and spicy kick. The experience emphasizes the vibrant energy and welcoming atmosphere of a traditional Mexican breakfast.

II. Midday: Market Exploration & Sheep Head Tacos at Merced Market (10:00 AM - 1:00 PM)

Accompanied by YouTuber Peluche Torres, the exploration moves to Merced Market, one of the largest in Mexico City, a crucial source of produce for restaurants and street food stalls. The initial focus is on sheep head tacos, a specialty of a particular stall. The entire sheep head is baked and then chopped to order, served with consommé and a choice of salsas. The tongue is particularly praised for melting in the mouth, complemented by the salsa’s kick. The experience highlights the adventurous side of Mexican cuisine. Peluche explains the concept of receiving two tortillas with the taco, referred to as a “copy.”

III. Market Immersion: La Merced’s Labyrinth & Street Food Delights (1:00 PM - 2:30 PM)

La Merced Market is described as a “city within a city,” a labyrinthine space offering seasonal fruits, vegetables, and a vast array of ingredients. The market’s friendly atmosphere is emphasized. A key find is a stall selling massive chicharrón – an entire pig fried to crispy perfection. A taste test reveals a unique combination of crispiness and juiciness.

IV. Jamaica Market & the Invention of Huarache (2:30 PM - 4:00 PM)

The journey continues to Jamaica Market, where the focus shifts to huarache, a dish invented within the market itself. The huarache is a thick corn masa base filled with beans, topped with lard, steak, onions, nopales cactus, and generous amounts of red and green salsa and cotija cheese. Peluche advocates for eating it “taco style” with hands, emphasizing the corn dough’s texture. The dish is described as “half a kilo of food,” incredibly filling and flavorful.

V. Afternoon: Mole Nupcial & Cake at Fonda Mi Lupita (4:00 PM - 5:30 PM)

Fonda Mi Lupita, a restaurant serving mole for over 60 years, is the next stop. The mole, called mole nupcial (wedding mole), is a family recipe combining the traditions of both grandparents. It contains over 20 ingredients, including chocolate, walnuts, cinnamon, and sesame seeds. The dish is served as enchiladas, bathed in mole, topped with cheese and onions. A unique surprise is a mole cake, created by the owner’s mother, described as incredibly moist and flavorful, blending chocolate, chilies, and spices. Ethan, the restaurant representative, explains the history and complexity of their mole recipe.

VI. Evening: Ancient Beverages & Pulque at a Traditional Bar (5:30 PM - 7:00 PM)

The exploration transitions to a pulque bar, showcasing an ancient Mesoamerican beverage made from the maguey plant. The original pulque is described as having a sour acidity and a slightly slimy texture due to the sap. A guava-flavored pulque is also sampled, praised for its thickness and fruitiness. Pulque’s historical significance as a sacred beverage is noted.

VII. Late Night: Tacos Al Pastor & Tacos Suadero (7:00 PM - 12:00 AM)

The evening culminates in a taco crawl. First, tacos al pastor are sampled, highlighting their origins from Lebanese immigrants and the unique method of cooking the marinated pork on a vertical spit, topped with pineapple. Then, the focus shifts to tacos suadero, a cut of beef slow-cooked in its own fat. The stall is described as a “Jacuzzi of bubbling fat, oil, meat, brisket.” The tortillas are also simmered in the fat, absorbing the flavor. The suadero is praised for its intense flavor and tender texture, with both chopped and caramelized (burnt end) variations sampled. The experience emphasizes the importance of tacos in Mexican food culture.

Data & Statistics:

• Mexico City has a population of over 20 million people within the greater metro area.
• Fonda Margarita has been serving breakfast since 1948.
• Fonda Mi Lupita’s mole recipe contains over 20 ingredients.
• The tacos suadero stall has been operating since 1974.

Notable Quotes:

• “You taste the sourness because of the green tomatoes, and then the fried pork skin that just absorbs it all.” – Mark Wiens on chicharrón.
• “It’s so juicy, it’s so saucy, with the richness of those beans.” – Mark Wiens on the breakfast combination.
• “That tongue absolutely melts in your mouth.” – Mark Wiens on sheep head tacos.
• “It’s a seafood cocktail, but just taken to extreme levels with the mixture of seafood.” – Mark Wiens on vuelve a la vida.
• “That’s one of those bites that deserves a moment of silence.” – Mark Wiens on tacos suadero.
• “If you leave without trying tacos al pastor, you didn’t really come to Mexico City.” – Mark Wiens.

Conclusion:

This 24-hour culinary journey through Mexico City showcases the incredible diversity and depth of Mexican cuisine. From traditional breakfasts and market explorations to complex moles and late-night tacos, the experience highlights the passion, history, and artistry behind the food. The emphasis on family-run establishments, fresh ingredients, and unique cooking techniques underscores the authenticity and vibrancy of Mexico City’s food culture. The trip is a testament to the city’s status as one of the world’s best food destinations.