At Mesa by José Avillez, traditional Portuguese cuisine is elevated through innovation

Key Concepts

• Mesa Restaurant: A contemporary Portuguese restaurant focusing on innovative interpretations of traditional cuisine.
• Beetroot Tartar: A signature dish utilizing beetroot prepared in a style reminiscent of steak tartar, incorporating diverse textures and flavors.
• Seafood Rice with Caviar: A refined take on the classic Portuguese seafood rice, emphasizing depth of flavor through charcoal cooking and premium ingredients.
• Nitrogen Freezing: A culinary technique used to rapidly freeze elements, creating unique textures (e.g., frozen caviar).
• Broth Reduction: Utilizing the shells and heads of seafood to create a concentrated, flavorful broth for cooking rice.

Restaurant Concept & Culinary Philosophy

Mesa, a contemporary Portuguese restaurant, is founded on the principle of reimagining traditional Portuguese cuisine. As stated by Jose V. and Eland Fernanch, the restaurant aims to “maintain the identity and the soul of the Portuguese cuisine” while employing “the best ingredients [and] the best techniques.” The core concept revolves around honoring Portuguese culinary heritage through innovation and a focus on quality. The restaurant’s approach isn’t simply replication, but rather a respectful evolution of classic dishes.

Beetroot Tartar: Deconstruction & Texture

The first signature dish highlighted is the Beetroot Tartar. This dish directly references the classic steak tartar preparation, but substitutes beetroot as the primary ingredient. The beetroot is seasoned with “beetroot emotion” – a specific seasoning blend not further detailed – and Dijon mustard. A key element of this dish is the manipulation of texture. Pine nut milk is prepared and then partially frozen using liquid nitrogen. This rapid freezing process creates what is described as a “frozen caviar,” offering a contrasting textural element to the softer beetroot. The intention is to deliver an “earthy and resin taste” that is “very different and very special.” This demonstrates a commitment to surprising and delighting diners through unexpected flavor and textural combinations.

Seafood Rice with Caviar: Flavor Depth & Technique

The second dish presented is the Seafood Rice with Caviar, a contemporary interpretation of a classic Portuguese seafood rice. The preparation emphasizes maximizing flavor through specific cooking techniques. Lobsters and carabinero (scarlet shrimp) are cooked “over open fire in the charcoal.” This imparts a smoky flavor profile. Crucially, the chefs utilize the heads of the lobster and carabinero to create a concentrated broth. This broth is then used to cook the rice, infusing it with a “very depth flavor of seafood” that distinguishes Mesa’s version from others in the city.

The dish is finished with the addition of sea urchin and caviar. These ingredients are not merely garnishes, but are specifically chosen to “enhance the flavors and also the textures.” This layering of premium ingredients and careful technique demonstrates a commitment to elevating a traditional dish to a fine-dining experience.

Logical Connections & Synthesis

The two dishes presented exemplify Mesa’s culinary philosophy. Both begin with a foundation in traditional Portuguese cuisine – steak tartar’s conceptual framework and the classic seafood rice. However, both are then deconstructed and rebuilt using modern techniques and high-quality ingredients. The use of liquid nitrogen in the beetroot tartar and the charcoal grilling/broth reduction in the seafood rice demonstrate a technical proficiency and a willingness to experiment. The emphasis on texture in both dishes – the frozen caviar and the combination of rice, seafood, sea urchin, and caviar – highlights a holistic approach to the dining experience.

Ultimately, Mesa aims to offer a contemporary Portuguese dining experience that is both familiar and innovative, rooted in tradition but driven by a passion for culinary excellence.