A Japanese squash takes root in EuropeーNHK WORLD-JAPAN NEWS

Key Concepts

• Kabocha: A Japanese winter squash with a chestnut-like flavor.
• Hokkaido (Squash): The name given to Kabocha in Europe, particularly Germany, despite its origin in Japan.
• Wasamu Town (Hokkaido, Japan): The largest cultivation area for Kabocha in Japan.
• Kaki Hiroshi: Japanese importer who introduced Kabocha to Germany and named it “Hokkaido.”
• Cultivation Boom: The significant increase in edible squash cultivation in Germany, driven by the popularity of “Hokkaido” Kabocha.

The Curious Case of “Hokkaido” Kabocha in Europe

This report investigates the phenomenon of Kabocha squash being widely marketed and known as “Hokkaido” in Europe, specifically Germany, despite originating in Japan. While in Japan, particularly in Wasamu Town – the largest cultivation area – the squash is simply referred to as Kabocha, and the name “Hokkaido” is largely unfamiliar even to local producers, it has become synonymous with the vegetable across much of the continent.

Kabocha’s Popularity in Germany

The report demonstrates the widespread acceptance of “Hokkaido” Kabocha in Germany through on-the-ground reporting. Grocery stores and produce markets readily sell the squash under this name, with one vendor stating they have been selling “Hokkaido” for at least 30 years and that it is their “bestselling squash.” Restaurants also feature “Hokkaido” prominently on their autumn menus, describing its flavor as “mild and fruity,” and noting it’s “virtually impossible to run a restaurant in autumn without Hokkaido.” This illustrates a deeply ingrained consumer recognition and demand for the squash under the European moniker.

The Origin of the Name: Kaki Hiroshi and Seed Importation

The story of how Kabocha became “Hokkaido” in Europe centers around Kaki Hiroshi, a Japanese expatriate who moved to Germany in 1982 and later began importing Japanese foods, including miso. He began growing Kabocha for personal consumption, recognizing the similarity between the German climate and that of Hokkaido, Japan’s northernmost prefecture. In 1992, Kaki imported Kabocha seeds directly from Hokkaido and successfully harvested over three tons of the squash in his first year of production.

When a wholesaler showed interest in purchasing his crop, Kaki was asked to provide a name for the product. He immediately responded with “Hokkaido,” a direct reference to the origin of the seeds. Initially, he cultivated the green-skinned Kabocha variety common in Japan.

The Rise of the Orange Variety and the Cultivation Boom

Over time, other German growers began cultivating an orange-skinned variety of Kabocha. According to Kaki, “Germans preferred the orange one.” This orange variety became particularly popular and, consequently, was also labeled “Hokkaido Kabocha.” This naming convention solidified the association between the squash and the Japanese prefecture in the European market.

The adoption of the “Hokkaido” name coincided with a significant increase in edible squash cultivation in Germany. The report states that the cultivation area has “more than tripled over the past 15 years,” directly linking this growth to the popularity of “Hokkaido” Kabocha. Kaki Hiroshi notes the spread of “Hokkaido” Kabocha is extending beyond Germany, even reaching countries like Bosnia.

A Geographical Misnomer and Future Expansion

The report concludes by highlighting the irony of a Japanese vegetable being primarily known by the name of a Japanese region in Europe, while remaining largely unlabeled as “Hokkaido” within Japan itself. The final question posed is, “How much farther will it spread from its Japanese home?” suggesting continued expansion of “Hokkaido” Kabocha’s presence in European and potentially other international markets.