A Chinese Street Opera Star's Tour Of Singapore's Oldest Town | Singapore Hour

By CNA Insider

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Key Concepts

  • Getai: A lively Singaporean culture featuring live music, free concerts, color, good vibes, and comedy, often performed during the Seventh Lunar Month (Hungry Ghost Festival).
  • Toa Payoh: An old and central neighborhood in Singapore, known for its hawker culture, traditional pastimes, community initiatives, and as a hub for getai performances.
  • Hawker Centre: A common dining spot in Singapore offering a variety of affordable meals, including breakfast, lunch, and dinner.
  • Ipoh-style Wanton Mee: A specific preparation of wanton mee originating from Ipoh, Malaysia, characterized by a black sauce, distinct from other versions.
  • Bird-singing Hobby: A traditional pastime in Singapore, particularly among older generations, involving the appreciation and competition of birds' singing abilities.
  • Red-Whiskered Bulbul (Jambul): A species of bird commonly found in bird-singing arenas.
  • Oriental White-eye: Another species of smaller singing birds.
  • Mahjong Together: A community initiative in Toa Payoh that pairs youths with seniors to play mahjong, fostering intergenerational connection.
  • Home-based Cafe: A cafe operating from a residential home, often offering more affordable versions of cafe drinks and desserts.
  • Aqidah's Brew: A specific home-based cafe in Toa Payoh known for its strawberry matcha and gula melaka drinks.
  • Fish Steamboat: A popular dish, especially in Toa Payoh, cooked using charcoal for enhanced aroma and flavor.
  • Jing Tai Lan: A decorative enamel technique used for the exterior features of the steamboat pot.
  • Seventh Lunar Month (Hungry Ghost Festival): A traditional Chinese festival where getai performances are common.
  • Ang Baos: Red packets containing money, given to getai performers as a gesture of good luck and encouragement.

Toa Payoh: A Neighborhood of Culture and Community

This video explores the vibrant life and unique cultural tapestry of Toa Payoh, Singapore, guided by Pei Fen, a getai performer and resident. The narrative highlights how Toa Payoh serves as a microcosm of Singaporean heritage and community spirit, interwoven with various traditions and modern initiatives.

Culinary Delights in Toa Payoh

The exploration begins at a local market in Toa Payoh, a central hub for residents to enjoy meals throughout the day. Pei Fen visits her favorite wanton mee stall, which has been operating for 30 years. The stall owner explains that his wanton mee is prepared in the Ipoh-style, a recipe brought over by his wife from Ipoh, Malaysia. He has further innovated by creating his own unique black sauce. The dish is described as "comfort food," with the char siew (barbecued pork) noted for its tenderness. This hawker stall exemplifies how food in Toa Payoh provides a sense of home for many residents.

The Traditional Pastime of Bird-Singing

A significant aspect of Toa Payoh's heritage is the bird-singing hobby, a traditional pastime cherished by older generations. Pei Fen visits a dedicated open space where bird enthusiasts gather. She meets Peter, who explains that the pavilion, initially accommodating 30-40 birds, now houses around 800. The birds, such as the Red-Whiskered Bulbul (Jambul) and Oriental White-eyes, are singing birds. Peter reveals that the male birds are the singers, a fact that surprises Pei Fen, who initially assumed it was the females due to the high pitch. The hobby is described as a stress reliever for retirees and is also attracting younger generations on weekends. The pavilion's popularity extends beyond Toa Payoh, drawing visitors from other neighborhoods like Bedok Reservoir. Peter emphasizes that the gathering is not just about the birds but also about the social interactions, laughter, coffee talks, and shared memories.

Bridging Generations Through Mahjong

Toa Payoh is also home to unique community initiatives, such as Mahjong Together. This group, formed in 2020, comprises youths aged 16 to 21 who aim to connect younger and older generations through the traditional Chinese tile game, mahjong. The initiative specifically targets Toa Payoh due to its status as an older estate, making it an ideal location to bridge generational gaps. Each mahjong table consists of a pair of youths and a pair of seniors, facilitating interaction. The game is described as challenging and fun, requiring strategy and memory. While Pei Fen admits to losing, she highlights that the game is not about money, providing a valuable opportunity for juniors to learn from seniors and for seniors to stay engaged by interacting with the youth.

Home-Based Cafes and Local Support

The video then features Aqidah's Brew, a home-based cafe that started in 2025. Aqidah, the owner, was inspired to open a cafe from a young age but found it financially challenging. She opted for a home-based model to offer more affordable versions of popular cafe drinks, such as strawberry matcha and gula melaka, using oat milk and fresh milk. Pei Fen, a friend of Aqidah, expresses her support for local businesses and praises the "special personal touch" in Aqidah's beverages and desserts.

The Art of Fish Steamboat and Getai Performance

Before her getai performance, Pei Fen enjoys an early dinner at a restaurant famous for its fish steamboat. The restaurant utilizes charcoal for cooking, which enhances the soup's boiling quality and imparts a distinct aroma, evoking a sense of "kampung" (village) times. The steamboat pot itself features a unique exterior design called Jing Tai Lan, which Pei Fen notes she had to travel to China to source. The owner advises cooking the fish for only about 20 seconds and suggests spreading sambal onto the fish for a better taste, rather than dipping it. This meal is described as a perfect combination of family, friends, and good food.

Getai: A Cultural Performance

The video culminates with Pei Fen preparing for her getai performance. Getai, meaning "song stage," is a live stage performance held during the Seventh Lunar Month, also known as the Hungry Ghost Festival. This festival has ancient roots in Chinese culture and has evolved into a vibrant celebration of song, comedy, and community. Getai performances are characterized by live interaction with the audience, which is crucial for creating a connection. Pei Fen, a performer for over 30 years, views getai as a way to keep her culture alive. Audiences often offer Ang Baos (red packets) as a gesture of good luck and encouragement. The performances include singing in various languages (Hokkien, Cantonese, English), comedy skits, dancing, and elaborate costumes. Pei Fen describes her role as an emcee as unscripted, requiring wit and adaptability to the crowd. She feels a strong connection with the pioneer generations and enjoys performing for them.

Conclusion

Toa Payoh is presented as a neighborhood where heritage and community converge, shaping individuals like Pei Fen. The video showcases the area's rich culinary scene, traditional pastimes like bird-singing, innovative community initiatives like Mahjong Together, the rise of home-based businesses, and the enduring cultural significance of getai performances. These elements collectively contribute to the unique identity and charm of Toa Payoh, making it a special place for its residents and visitors alike.

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